Sew Sweetness

Modern Quilting Magazine

2012-02-26T19:00:00.001-08:00

The very first issue of a great quilting magazine has just come out! As you can tell by the quilt on the cover, Modern Quilting Magazine is all about modern fabrics and projects. If you're interested in signing up for a subscription to this UK magazine, you can go here and enter code S5IE4PYF for 10% off (for U.S. readers, there is an extra shipping charge for the subscription).

Unfortunately, I have not been able to get my little paws on this yet as it just arrived from the printer on Friday (this week? Maybe? I am keeping my fingers crossed!). However, I have it on good authority from Lynne of Lily's Quilts that there are several Amy Butler projects in the magazine.

I can tell you one project that I do know is in the magazine, and that is for my Conversation Bag sewing pattern! There is the spread of it in the magazine, and here is a self-shot photo of the bag before I shipped it off overseas:

Thank you so much to Kim and to Katy for testing my pattern! Katy has "engineer-edited" a few of my patterns...Katy I appreciate your brutal honesty, for telling me "eek! that doesn't make sense", and for putting up with an American Idiot (me! How many yards in a meter?). Katy is also hosting a block in the New York Beauty Quilt Along.

This was my first magazine-published project, and I was super excited to be asked! In case you're curious, most magazines have a submission page on their website, which usually includes their contact information, how to submit project ideas, and sometimes even particular projects they are looking for. If you have an interest in submitting a project idea for a magazine, I say go for it! Sometimes you can send a sketch, but if you are at all able to, I would definitely recommend sending a photo of a completed project if you can. Here is the submission page for several magazines from Interweave (and obviously you can e-mail Modern Quilting Magazine or any others).

Above is the project from Lynne of Lily's Quilts. What an amazing pillow, and that tree is the graphic from her blog, which I have envied for quite some time! I will definitely be making this...or maybe I can make a little forest of a wall hanging. ;-)

Tips for Sewing with Laminate Fabrics

2012-02-26T18:23:00.001-08:00

I recently sewed with some laminated fabrics (Outside Oslo by Jessica Jones), and it was an experience! I am hardly an expert, but I wanted to share some of my observations about laminates in case you have some in your stash that you are thinking about sewing with.

Note: I'd definitely recommend experimenting on a small piece of your laminates first!

I used my laminated fabrics to sew some bags. At first, I felt very scared and frustrated by the idea (not to mention that they cost about 3 times what I normally spend on fabric, so I was terrified about making a big mistake). Before I began, I read these tips by Amy Butler and also from Kathy of Pink Chalk Fabrics.

Did you know that Lou Lou Thi Summer Totem in Tart is available as a laminate? Oo la la!

The first thing that I had to do was to cut out the pattern pieces for my bags. Since I wanted to fussy-cut the fabric, I wanted to make sure it was right sides facing me. However, I had a hard time deciding how I wanted to make the marks for the pieces. Usually I use my fabric marker, but the marker of course didn't take to the fabric. I used the tip of my scissors to lightly make a mark all around each pattern piece. The mark is barely visible (in case of error), but just enough for me to see and make the cuts.

I had read online that you could not use interfacing with laminated fabrics. I was able to fuse my laminate to 3 different types of Pellon interfacing (SF-101 fusible woven, fusible thermolam, and 520F fusible deco-shape). The interfacing will not really adhere well with a dry iron, so I used a small amount of steam, with my iron set at the cotton setting that I usually use. I put the laminate face down, the interfacing on top, and then my press cloth. I did lightly mist the press cloth. I repeatedly checked the interfacing, and as soon as it adhered, I stopped ironing immediately.

Sewing the laminate was a bit tricky. Perhaps if I had less of a thickness (because of the interfacing), a walking foot might have worked, but I could not get my tension right with the walking foot. I also tried putting painter's tape at the bottom of my regular presser foot, and the fabric would not pass through. Finally I just tried sewing with my regular presser foot as is. I did not have much trouble (besides it being a bit of a slow going). I also found that the heat from my hands stymied the fabric, so I kept my hands off the fabric as much as possible and lightly gave it guidance through the machine. I would recommend lengthening your stitch a small bit.

My final tip would be not to pin at all (unless you are going to pin in the seam allowance), and sew your fabric as little as possible. Maybe that sounds strange, so let me explain. Every stitch, even though you might be sewing straight as an arrow, will be incredibly visible in the laminated fabric. Areas that I normally topstitch (such as small outer flaps, in the case of the bag I was working on), I left alone. I did topstitch, but just things that I felt were absolutely necessary to the shape of the bag. I did purchase a denim needle to use, but my regular sewing machine needle ended up working just fine (even through all the interfacing. Thanks Angie for reminding me about the needles!).

Hopefully my observations will help someone thinking about working with laminates! It wasn't that bad, but I will say that I did breath a sigh of relief when I got back to regular quilt-weight cottons!

GIVEAWAY! And Paper Piecing Count Down!

2012-02-25T05:40:00.000-08:00

In honor of the New York Beauty Quilt Along starting next Monday, March 5th, why not celebrate with a great giveaway?! This giveaway will be open to all, not just those joining in (although we'd love it if you'd quilt along with us!!).

The fabric, which will be awarded to one lucky winner, is a fat quarter bundle of Tilly by Daisy Janie, pictured above. Tilly are 100% organic fabrics. They are so neat, and my favorite is definitely the orange print at the top!!

The giveaway is generously offered by a new Etsy shop called Lima Sews. Linh is the owner of Lima Sews, and she also has a blog to keep you up-to-date with special offers and other sewing news!

Here is what Linh had to share about her shop:
"Our focus is on smaller fabric producers and designers. If it's organic, that's even better. But really, it's all about what's pretty, so you might see items from Moda and Free Spirit too. Over the next few weeks, we're expecting shipments from Art Gallery and Blend Fabrics to provide more selection. Please feel free to contact us if you have any suggestions or requests for fabrics!"

Here is another fabric bundle that I adore from Lima Sews! This is the organic line of Commute prints from Birch Fabrics! So beautiful, and I love the bright color palette!

Please click the link below to enter the giveaway. Giveaway will end on Friday, March 2nd at 11pm CT!

Please Click Here to Enter the Giveaway!

GIVEAWAY! Pellon Embroidery Stabilizers

2012-02-20T05:50:00.001-08:00

This giveaway is now closed. The winner was #272 stitcher! Congratulations!

Today's giveaway is a good one! One lucky winner will receive the Pellon prize pack pictured above! The pack includes all the embroidery stabilizer you could use:

Retail Value: over $90!!

1. Sol-U-Film Lite 12" x 9 yards
This is a wash-away stabilizer. It's good for monogramming and decorative stitching.
2. Fuse-N-Tear 12" x 12 yards
Iron-on tear-away stabilizer, great for applique and decorative stitching.
3. Stitch-N-Tear Lite 12" x 11 yards
Tear-away stabilizer, good for buttonholes, applique, and edgework.
4. Stick-N-Year 12" x 6 yards
This is a pressure-sensitive tear-away stabilizer, good for ribbon, cuffs, collars, knits, and doll clothes.
5. Soft-N-Stay 12" x 11 yards
Cut away, light-weight stabilizer; great for organza, lycra, sweater knits, and netting.

Don't forget to visit Pellon Projects for free projects using Pellon products!

I have yet to try embroidery (although I really really want to; my project list is just humongous at the moment), so I checked with Rachael from Imagine Gnats to find the low-down on embroidery stabilizer. Not only will you find a blog on Racheal's site, but she has some beautiful free graphic downloads and embroidery patterns in her Etsy shop! Here is one of Rachael's embroidery patterns, which is just adorable!

This is what Rachael had to say about Pellon embroidery stabilizers:

"My first real project with hand embroidery was when I started using it for the faces of rag dolls. The only real hand stitching I had done before was cross-stitch with my grandma, which I found to have been completely different... especially when I decided to try to hand embroider faces on upcycled cotton t-shirts. Pellon Tear-Away stabilizer was a life saver, and remains the only way I can hope to accurately embroider on stretchy and somewhat unpredictable fabrics."

So there you go! If you are a seasoned embroiderer, please enter to win some great prizes! If you are like me and have grand plans to embroider someday soon, please enter as well! You have until Friday, February 24 at 11pm CT! Good luck!

Please Click Here to Enter the Giveaway!

New York Beauty Quilt Along - Fabric Choices

2012-02-19T20:28:00.000-08:00

Even though the New York Beauty Quilt Along doesn't begin for another 2 weeks, I think I've nailed down my fabric choices already. I got a package on Friday from Fabric.com with some pretty Kona solids. I used to buy Kona mixed with other quilting solids from Joann's, but I have noticed that after a few washes, the Joann's solids start to get pilly, so unless I am making something that I don't plan on washing, I probably will only buy Kona from now on.

I based my Kona solid choices after the colorway of the fabric above, which is Amy Butler Gothic Rose Burgundy, probably my favorite fabric of all time. I tweaked the colors on the selvage slightly, but I think I'm happy with what I ended up with. Maybe my colors are a little all over the place, but I'm hoping once they are paper pieced, they'll pull together.

For my background fabric, I chose the above text print, which is Moda Hometown by Sweetwater, Town Square in Mist. I think it'll give the blocks a really cool edge.

So, with 2 weeks left until the quilt along, you can certainly still join in! For more information, click on the button on my right side-bar, or even grab a button for your own blog! If you've decided on your own fabrics, post them to the Flickr Group!

Tutorial: Planetary Mini Quilt

2012-02-17T05:24:00.001-08:00

Thank you so much to Jennifer from Ellison Lane Quilts for having me guest post on her blog! This post is part of the Modern Mini Challenge! Jennifer has really organized an outstanding event, with lots of guest posts to show you some inspiration mini quilts. If you have made a mini quilt for the challenge, don't forget to go back to her blog on March 5th to enter! There are some *phenomenal* prizes to be had!!

I really enjoyed making this mini quilt. The background fabric is Alexander Henry Light Bright in black (which I have had for over 5 years and was super-excited to finally use), and the Kona solids are turquoise, chartreuse, and purple. While I was piecing the blocks, I thought maybe the background might be a bit overpowering for the solids, but as I finished, I was really happy with the choice. This mini will go up as a wall hanging.

I was also able to use Aurifil Threads for the first time. I received some Aurifil Threads in the fall right before we moved, but I still have 3 sewing boxes packed up, so I'm not sure where my threads are. My friend Kim, because she knows everything that I need, sent me some thread colors that I needed, including pink and this blue wool Aurifil thread that I used to quilt my mini. The Aurifil threads are just so smooth...the blue was a perfect color match, and the wool was so nice and thick. Just love it. Must get more Aurifil!!

Today's tutorial for the Planetary Mini Quilt can be made using an Accuquilt GO! fabric cutting machine, or the templates attached here.

Printable Pattern Pieces

ALL SEAMS WILL BE SEWN USING A 1/4" SEAM ALLOWANCE.

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING.

Finished size: 28" x 28"

SUPPLIES

- 1-1/4 yards background fabric
- 1/3 yard each of 3 different main fabrics
- 1/4 yard Pellon #725 Wonder Under
- 1 yard fabric for backing
- 1 yard quilt batting (I used Pellon #TP971F Fusible Thermolam Plus)
- coordinating thread

STEP 1 ~ CUT OUT YOUR FABRICS

1a. Cut your background fabric into 8 strips along the width of the fabric, with each strip measuring 4.5". Cut the strips again into 4.5" x 4.5" squares. You will need 64 squares.

1b. Cut the remainder of the background fabric into 1 strip along the width of the fabric, measuring 4.5". Cut the strip again into 4.5" x 4.5" squares (keep these separate from Step 1a.). You will need 8 squares.

1c. Cut each of your main fabrics into strips along the width of the fabric, with each strip measuring 3.5". Cut 3 strips each fabric. You will need 22 squares of each of the 3 fabrics.

1d. Cut your Pellon Wonder Under into 4.5" strips, then again into 4.5" x 4.5" squares. You will need 64 squares.

1e. Either using an Accuquilt 3.5" Drunkard's Path die or the printable pattern pieces, cut your fabric according to the following:
- Fabric from Step 1c.: Use your pie-shaped die or Pattern Piece B, to cut Main Pieces. - Fabric from Step 1a.: Use the large-shaped die or Pattern Piece A, to cut Large Background Pieces.
- Fabric from Step 1b and 1d.: Use Pattern Piece C (if you have an Accuquilt, you will still use Pattern Piece C), to cut Small Background Pieces. You will be able to cut 2 from each

STEP 2 ~ PIECE THE CURVED BLOCKS

2a. Take 1 Large Background Piece and 1 Main Piece. Sew them right sides together. To do this, pin the start, finish, and end of the small curved piece. Also place 2 additional pins, as shown in the picture (I used 5 pins total).

2b. Sew along the curved edge. Be sure to ease and smooth the fabrics as you sew, to avoid puckers or bunching.

2c. Press the seam toward the background fabric.

2d. Repeat Steps 2a. through 2c. to assemble 64 units.

STEP 3 ~ ASSEMBLE THE BLOCKS

3a. Sew together same-fabric blocks in groups of 2. For example, I sewed my purple block to another purple block, etc. Make sure to line up the seams. Repeat until all the blocks have been joined in pairs.

3b. Fuse your Pellon Wonder Under pieces to the wrong side of each fabric piece C, following manufacturer instructions.

3c. Choose 16 of your joined blocks. I divided mine up between my 3 main fabrics. Take 1 of these blocks, and center your fabric piece C in the middle of the main fabric; raw edges should be even. Remove the paper backing from the Wonder Under and fuse.

3d. Stitch your fabric C down to the block using a tight zig-zag or a blanket stitch. Repeat for all 16 joined blocks.

3e. Now lay out your blocks. You will match 1 applique unit with 1 solid unit, to create 4-square units. There will be 4 rows across and 4 columns down.

STEP 4 ~ QUILT AND BIND

4a. Quilt your mini using coordinating thread. I quilted 1/2" away from each of the curved edges.

Since my mini quilt will be a wall hanging, I used a beautiful blue Aurifil Thread.

4b. Bind.

Congratulations, you're finished!!

Thanks for following along! Don't forget to check my tutorial page for other free sewing patterns, including several bags! You can also join my Flickr Group for help with any of my projects!

New York Beauty Quilt Along

2012-02-15T02:09:00.003-08:00

I'm very excited to announce the New York Beauty Quilt Along! This quilt along is all about paper piecing. If you've never done paper piecing before, it might sound a little bit scary, but trust me, you can do it! The quilt along will feature step-by-step photos and instructions for each block by some very talented quilters, to give you the confidence to get off and running!

New York Beauty block from Kati of From the Blue Chair

We will be working with 10 New York Beauty blocks, and you can get a preview of the blocks here. Each block instruction makes one 8" x 8" block (as shown in the graphics); you can either assemble 4 of the same block to make one large 15.5" x 15.5" block (as pictured above), or you can mix and match to make something beautiful!

Here are the approximate fabric requirements if you are planning on making all ten 8" x 8" blocks:

- 10 fat eighths for main fabrics (or 5 fat quarters or scrap fabric)
- 1-1/2 yards background fabric

And here is the schedule for the block tutorials:

March 5 - Kim from My Go-Go Life {Block 0}
March 12 - Sara from Sew Sweetness {Block 5}
March 19 - Megan from Canoe Ridge Creations (Block 1}
March 26 - Kati from From the Blue Chair {Block 8}
April 2 - Jeni from In Color Order {Block 7}
April 9 - Amy from Sukie Don't You Know Who I Am? {Block 6}
April 16 - Katy from The Littlest Thistle {Block 3}
April 23 - Lee from Freshly Pieced {Block 4}
April 30 - Amy from amylouwho {Block 2}
May 7 - Lindsay from Lindsay Sews {Block 9}

If you are thinking about participating, please join the Flickr Group!
We'll be sharing fabric choices and help along the way!

So...are you game?! Grab a button and we'll see you on March 5th for the first block of the series!!

Reader Tutorial: Cathedral Window Pouch

2012-02-10T04:41:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Reader Tutorial week here at Sew Sweetness! Each day this week will feature a wonderful step-by-step sewing tutorial from one of my readers. Today's guest post is from June at JuneBug's World! She always has tons of great projects going on, so stop over and say hi!

Hello Everybody! I'm so happy to be guesting over here at Sara's lovely site, and I hope you'll all enjoy my Cathedral Window Zip Pouch tutorial. It's very fun to make, and even more fun to use. You may have first seen this zip pouch as a finalist on the Stitched in Color Celebrate Color event last fall. It's a great pouch to use up some scraps, and to try your hand at various techniques like fussy cutting, cathedral windows, and pintucks. If you like this project and are interested in more with my style, visit me over at Junebug's World! I'd be happy to have you there :)

Cathedral Window Pouch Tutorial
Yields: one 9 x 5" zip pouch

Materials:
1 - cathedral window block, as per the Spotted Stone tutorial
2 - 8x7" main linen (includes allowances for around cathedral window)
1 - 5x12" accent linen (for pintuck side)
2 - 9.5 x 5.5" canvas or home dec fabric (for interfacing)
2 - 9.5 x 5.5" lining fabric
1 - 10" or longer zipper
thread

You'll start by making this cathedral window - go over to the Spotted Stone blog for a wonderful tutorial on it. I like to pull scraps from my stash and find a good print to fussy cut an image from.

Next, cut one main linen piece into sections... 2 - 2x8" strips, then 2 - 3x4" pieces.

Trim cathedral window 1/4" from the points of the window, creating a (approx) 3.5" square window.

Piece together the linen strips around the trimmed cathedral window.

Right sides together. Sew the short sides first. Press. Trim.

Sew on the longer top and bottom edges, press, and trim the right edge to make it straight. Set aside.

Next up is the pintuck side of the pouch.

Take the whole piece of accent linen, and iron it about 1" in, along the long side of the fabric.

Sew down the ironed side very very close to the edge (use your presser foot as a guide, and sew about 1/8" from the edge)

Add a few more pintucks... you can either iron each time, or do free-form pintucks folding and using the previous tuck as a guideline.

Iron down all the pintucks so that they all fold down toward the same direction.
Cut the pintuck strip in half the short way so you end up with 2 pieces roughly 4" x 6".

With right sides facing, sew the pintuck piece to the cathedral window piece. Repeat for the back linen piece and the other pintuck piece.

Place the two pieces (the front and the back of the pouch) wrong sides facing together, and trim both pieces together to 9.5" x 5.5".

Now you'll add sew-in interfacing to stiffen up the pouch. I used canvas, you can use any type of stiffer material that you like. Canvas, home dec, interfacing, fusible fleece, old jeans... it all works.

Place the interfacing against the wrong side of your pretty pouch outer.

Sew along side of the cathedral window, close to the edge, esentially framing the cathedral window with a stitch line on all 4 sides.

Sew another line where the accent linen meets the main linen window.

It should look like this from the back:

Repeat for the back portion of the pouch (sew interfacing to the linen in the same pattern as above).

You should now have two thick pouch "outer" pieces and two pouch lining pieces, and one zipper.

Next we'll sew in the zipper. Place an outer face up (right side up), center the zipper across the top edge (zipper should be face down), and then place the pouch lining face down on top of the zipper, lining up all the top edges.

Your zipper sandwich should look like this:

Using your zipper foot, sew the sandwich together like this:

Flip right sides out, and press the outer and lining. Topstitch along the outer edge of the pouch very close to the zipper.

Repeat for the other side of the zipper (back side of pouch). You should now have something that looks like a butterfly:

For the next step, sewing your pouch edges together, make sure you unzip the zipper halfway so that you will be able to turn it right side out after sewing.

Flip outers right side together and linings right side together, like this:

Pinch the zipper edges towards the lining, like this:
Then sew around the whole pouch, using a 3/8" seam, leaving a 2-3" opening in the bottom center of the lining.

There's your opening in the lining... flip the whole contraption inside out via that hole (and the opening left in your zipper by having unzipped it halfway). Now you'll have a pouch with a lining sticking out of it. Sew the lining shut with a very small seam allowance.
Push the lining into the pouch, taking care to shove it all the way down into the corners. Zip it shut, press with a steam iron on both sides to give it the final touch.

For another reference on sewing a lined pouch together, go to my source... Noodlehead!

And you're done! Enjoy your new zakka style pouch, or give it to your favorite school age kid as a pencil pouch. Or use it as a makeup pouch. Or a travel zip pouch. The possibilities are endless, and super cute.

GIVEAWAY! Glass Half Full Quilt Pattern!

2012-02-09T22:48:00.000-08:00

The giveaway is now closed; the winner was #78 Beth. Thanks for entering!

I'm super-excited today to bring you a giveaway from my pal, Lindsay from Lindsay Sews. Besides having her own blog, Lindsay also co-blogs over at Craft Buds (which, by the way, is a *fine* blog to follow if you are looking for cool sewing ideas and weekly giveaway linkys!).

The .pdf pattern on giveaway today is called Glass Half Full. The quilt requires 2 yards background fabric and a layer cake (or 8 fat quarters). I love it, it's such a novel design! The pattern is complete with layout graphics and step-by-step color photos. You can purchase this .pdf pattern via Lindsay Sews on Etsy for $8!

Want to win a copy?! (pssst...check out Lindsay's blog for a separate giveaway!)

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE GIVEAWAY!

Reader Tutorial: The Not-so-Big Messenger Bag

2012-02-09T04:40:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Reader Tutorial week here at Sew Sweetness! Each day this week will feature a wonderful step-by-step sewing tutorial from one of my readers. Today's guest post is from Kim at Kim's Crafts!

I want to thank Sara for letting me do this! I love her blog and making her bags! I hope you enjoy my tutorial! If you have any problems or questions, let me know.

The
Not so Big Messenger bag

Supplies:

Main body pattern

½ yard fabric for front and back (I used corduroy owls)

1 yard accent fabric

3 yd. Pellon SF101 interfacing

7 inch zipper

Coordinating thread

2 D rings

1 bar slide buckle

½ inch magnetic snap

Zipper foot for sewing machine

Cutting the
pieces

From the Main
fabric:

1a. Using the template for the main panel, cut 2 pieces

Accent fabric:

1b. For the handles, fold the selvage edges together (I refolded
mine the opposite way it was folded on the bolt and lined up the edges evenly).
Ensure that the edge is straight and then cut 2 6inch strips. This will give you
a total of 88 inches for the strap. If you would like a longer strap, cut an
additional strip.

1c.Cut 2 bottom pieces measuring 4 in by 34 inches (I did this right
after I did the strap cuts since I knew I had a long straight edge

1d. Using the template for the main panel, cut 2 pieces

1e. Cut 2 pieces 9x7in for the pocket

Interfacing:

1f. Cut 4 pieces from the main panel template

1g. Cut 2 pieces for the bottom measuring 4in by 34 in

1h. Cut 2 pieces for the pockets measuring 9x7

Interface the pieces

2a. According to manufacturer’s instructions, attach the
interfacing to each piece. Every piece will have interfacing except for the
handle strips.

Assemble the interior
panels

The zipper pocket

3a. I will not lie and say that I have come up with the perfect
way of doing this. The tutorial I use for doing this is located here (http://www.make-baby-stuff.com/how-to-sew-a-zipper.html). There are a
couple of changes for this bag. Finger press one of the interior panels in half
and then measure down 3 inches- this is where your zipper will go. You will
also notice that our pocket measurement is smaller because our bag is smaller. The top mark is where the snap will go. The second one is for the zipper. For width I use a ¼ inch. The first one I did was a ½ inch and it was too big.

The snap

3b. Finger press each panel in have and make a mark 2 inches down.
This is where you will be inserting the snap.

3c.Using the prongs of the snap make 2 marks that line up with the
prongs. These should fall above and below the mark you made 2 inches down.

3d. Carefully snip these 2 marks, making sure to cut thru the
interfacing.

3e. Repeat steps 3c and 3d on two 1.5in square pieces of scrap fabric
or fleece.

3f. Insert one side of the snap thru the front of the panel and
then put on one of the scrap pieces onto the back of the fabric.

Insert the washer that comes with the snap and press down so
that the prongs lay flat (may need a small hammer for this). Repeat for the
other panel.

Attaching the
bottom/side piece

3g. Make a line 1 inch down on one of the bottom pieces. This will
be where you will start attaching the panels.

3h. Starting at the mark, start pinning the bottom piece along the
side panel, right sides together. When you make it to the curve, curve the
bottom piece around it as you pin it.

3i. When you have pinned the entire way around the panel, sew with
a 1/4inch seam.

3j. Repeat steps 3h and 3i for the other interior panel.

Assemble the
Exterior Panels

4a. Repeat step 3g, 3h, and 3i for the exterior panels

Connecting the
Exterior and Interior

5a. There are a couple of ways to do this. The way I chose may not
be the best for everyone but I like it! Insert your interior into the exterior,
so it looks like the bag will look. (sorry for the horrible picture)

5b. Line up the orange sides. The orange is going to be longer
than the rest of the edges of the bag so we need to trim them to make them even
with the rest of the bag. I drew lines across and trimmed them.

5c. Now, starting at the orange sides, fold the lining and
exterior down about ¼ inch towards their wrong sides, and pin together. Be sure
to match up the seams at the edge of the orange. Once both orange sections are
done, to this the rest of the bag.

This is the front after being pinned.

5d. Once the entire top is pinned down, sew along the top with a
1/8 inch seam, making sure that both edges are being sewn. This completes the
body of the bag!

Handles

6a. Now it is time to go back to those handles. Now is the time to
decide how long you want them to be. If you remember, we have about 88 inches
in length to use. You will need to trim the selvage off of each end and then
sew the 2 lengths together and press the seam down (minus any length you cut
off).

6b. Fold entire length of strap in half and press. Open back up.

6c. Fold the bottom edge up to the middle crease line and press.

Then fold the top edge down to the middle crease line and press.

6d. Now fold the strip in half along the original middle crease
line. Press and pin in place.

6e. Starting with the side that is pinned, sew together with a
1/4inch seam. Repeat on the other side.

6f. Now you need to grab your slide bar buckle and D rings.

You will take one end of the strap and pin it around the middle
bar on the buckle.

With my zipper foot, I sewed it as close as I could. I went back
over the seam a few times to make it stronger. Then I trimmed the excess edge.

6g. Now take the opposite end of the handle (without the buckle)
slip a D ring over the end and just let it flop around.

6h. With the same end, you are going to thread it thru the buckle.
It will go under the outer bar on the side where the seam is showing, over the
middle bar, and under the bar on the opposite side (be sure your strap isn’t
twisted). Pull some length thru the buckle.

6i. Now take the other D ring. On the flat edge, you are going to
pin the free end of the strap. Going back to the zipper foot, you are going to
attach it to the D ring. I sewed mine back and forth a few times and then I
trimmed the edge. Then rotate the D ring so that the strap is attached on the
round side and the straight side is free.

6j. Now you will need some 2 scraps fabric. I used the orange and
used some of the strap that I cut off. Because of this, the pieces that I am
using are 6in by 3 in. Fold in half so that it is 6in by 1.5 in and sew the
long side and one end with a ¼ inch seam. Leave the other end open so that you
can turn it inside out. Press well.

These are the pieces that you are going to use to attach the D rings
to the bag. Finger press one orange side so that you can see where the middle
is.

Thread one of these thru the first D ring.

Line up the middle of
the D ring with the crease you made. Pin to the bag just under the D ring. There should be about a
2inch strip hanging down from the ring. The end on top should also be the end
that is sewn closed. You can see that the back of the strip is longer than the
front. We will take care of this in a minute.

Using your zipper foot, sew as close to the ring as you can. Sew
back and forth a couple of times.

Now is the time when we are going to trim off the excess on this
piece that is hanging down. Trim it so it is just shorter than the front piece.

Pin it back down.

Sew close to the bottom of this piece, making sure that you are
sewing down the back piece. Sew back and forth a couple of times.

Repeat this for the other side and you are done!

Here's one in green!

Reader Tutorial: Hugs and Kisses Mug Rug

2012-02-08T04:25:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Reader Tutorial week here at Sew Sweetness! Each day this week will feature a wonderful step-by-step sewing tutorial from one of my readers. Today's guest post is from Sha at Craizee Corners. Sha has a couple of great quilt patterns, which you can see here! My favorite is the Floating Squares quilt!

Hi everyone, Sha here from Craizee Corners. I'm very excited to be here to show you a mug rug I recently made. I just love mug rugs, I have several throughout my house all ready for a cup on coffee or tea. I also have a few that are larger, like this one to be used as a traveling placemat for when I am lazy and want to eat one the couch.
If you are a follower of Craizee Corners you already saw the projects I made for V-Week, but if you missed it here's a link to the valentines projects I came up with this year. This is an extra project I made, just for this guest blog post. I hope you like it.
I call this mug rug Hugs and Kisses.

What you will need: I used Always and Forever fabric.
4 - 5" x 5" red heart fabric
8 - 2 1/2' x 2 1/2" solid white fabric
1 - 5" circle pink swirl fabric - with Steam-A-Seam or other 2 sided fusible web on the back
1 - 3" circle white heart fabric - with Steam-A-Seam or other 2 sided fusible web on the back
1 - 2" heart pink fabric - with Steam-A-Seam or other 2 sided fusible web on the back
thread to match the fabric
14" x 14" fabric for backing
14" x 14" batting
2 - 2 1/4" x WOF strips red for binding
For this pattern you will be sewing connectors onto squares. They are really simple to make. Here's my tutorial http://craizeecorner.blogspot.com/2011/10/corner-triangles-aka-connectorsa.html on connectors. please read this before you start.
1. With each of the 5" x 5" squares you will be sewing 2 white 2.5" x 2.5" squares onto opposite corners of red squares. Follow the connector tutorial for instructions. This is what your finished squares should look like.

2. Sew all 4 squares together with a red point towards the center. Make sure to match the white points up.

3. Now it's time to make your quilt sandwich. place the backing piece face down on your table, then the batting and finally the top piece face up. Pin or baste as you would like.
4. Take the heart applique piece and machine or hand applique it to the 3" circle. You can keep the paper from the fusible web on the back of the circle applique while stitching the heart on. Machine or hand applique with a blanket stitch. Now peel the paper off the back of the circle applique.
5. Fuse the 3" circle to the center of the 5" circle and then fuse the 5" circle to the center of the X. Be sure to make sure the heart is face up. Machine or hand applique both the circles with a blanket stitch.

6. Quilt as you would like. I quilted between the X and the white points.
7. Bind as normal.
There you go a Hugs and Kisses mug rug!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, if you make one of these I'd love to know and see any pics you have.
Please come by and visit Craizee Corners. This week I am doing a series on Sandy Gervais fabric complete with a great giveaway. Or join my Twister QAL that starts next week.
Thanks Sara for letting me visit your wonderful blog !

Reader Tutorial: Owl Hat

2012-02-07T04:43:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Reader Tutorial week here at Sew Sweetness! Each day this week will feature a wonderful step-by-step sewing tutorial from one of my readers. Today's guest post is from Rachael at Imagine Gnats. I have to admit that my favorite thing about Racheal's site is her embroidery work and Etsy shop! Check out this cool Valentine that she designed, too! Thanks Rachael!

hi! i'm rachael and i post my crafty ramblings at imagine gnats. i'm so excited to be posting here today!! you can read more about me here, if you like, or check out some of the other things i make and sell here on etsy. i first stopped by Sew Sweetness for an echino swap (hmm... still need to do something with those squares), and i stuck around because i just think that Sara is so sweet and genuine. i'm wowed by her talent, and i feel pretty honored to be posting here today.

see that silly hat on my head? well, last winter we found ourselves with a 2yo that refused to wear a winter hat (no matter how cold it was) and we simply could not find a solution. when i started seeing funky animal hats pop up all over the place, it seemed the logical thing to try my hand at making one.

spoiler: she didn't like this one either. this year, though, she's suddenly fine with hats. *sigh*

all that you need to make your own owl hat is a random selection of ill-fitting or otherwise unwearable sweaters, a few pieces of felt, scissors, and thread.

1. lay sweater flat and cut out two squares. this will be the main part of your hat. the size that you'll want your squares to be is really going to depend on both the stretchiness of the material you're using and also how large you want the final hat to be. assuming about a 1/2" seam allowance, here are my suggestions for sizing:

toddler: 6-6.5" square main material
children: 7-7.5" square main material
adults: 8.5-9.5" square main material

2. fold both squares in half and cut out a quarter circle on the fold (fold shown at top of photo below). from the fold, your quarter circle should cut about 1/3 of the way into the material. on the raw side (shown on bottom in photo below), cut a slight angle to form "horns."

3. lay main pieces flat, cut one half circle from another sweater, and center along bottom of the front hat piece.

4. from your felt, cut a triangle for the beak and three circles for each eye (i used dark purple for the small and large circles and light pink for the medium circle).

5. pin your half circle to the hat front and stitch around. embrace the exposed seams and make it fun... i used a zigzag stitch in a contrasting color.

6. pin your medium circles on top of the large circles and stitch.

7. pin the small circle on top of this and stitch.

8. once the eyes are together, pin them on the front of the hat and stitch.

9. do the same with the beak.

10. now that the front of your hat is ready, pin the front and back hat pieces, right sides together, and stitch around the sides and the top.

11. turn your hat right side out (you may want to add a little "hoo hoo" here, unless someone is around). cut a band of ribbing. the size of your band will depend on the material and desired hat size. here are some general suggestions:

toddler: 2-2.5" wide and twice as long as main material minus .5"
children: 2.5" wide and twice as long as main material minus .5"
adults: 3" wide and twice as long as main material minus .5"

12. sew the ends of your ribbing bad together so that it forms a circle. i just overlapped the ends of mine 1/2" and used a zigzag stitch.

13. pin the ribbing band to the iside of the hat as shown (wrong sides together).

14. stitch the band to your hat.

15. try it on!!! depending on fit, you can wear the hat with exposed seams or fold up the ribbing (as shown in the first picture).

thanks again to Sara for having me here today. happy crafting :)

Solstice Stars QAL - Block 2 Whirling Star, Block 3 Another Star

2012-02-06T05:31:00.000-08:00

Over the weekend, I made Whirling Star, block 2 of the Solstice Stars quilt along over at Fresh Lemons Quilts. This is a paper-pieced block, and I had an awesome time making it. I had to rip a couple of seams at the beginning, but after that it was smooth sailing. Faith's directions are really good, and I went with her tip of labeling my paper pieces before I started sewing, in order to keep it straight which fabrics went where.

I also had time to make block 3, Another Star, in the same evening. Each block took about an hour to make. Block 3 is a pieced block, and it went together fairly quickly. I like that I am all caught up on the blocks now...looking forward to make block 4 this Wednesday!

It's not too late to join in on the quilt along ;-)

Reader Tutorial: DIY Tote with Leather Straps

2012-02-06T04:40:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Reader Tutorial week here at Sew Sweetness! Each day this week will feature a wonderful step-by-step sewing tutorial from one of my readers. Today's guest post is from Gabi at Bee Inspired. Gabi has other sewing, crafting, and cooking tutorials over on her site, so hop on over and check it out!! Thanks Gabi!

Hi my name is Gabi and I blog over at www.bee-inspired.blogspot.com.

I am thrilled to be guest blogging here at Sew Sweetness.

If you have any questions please feel free to leave them in the comments box and I will check in to answer them, or you can come on over to my blog and find me there.

DIY tote bag with leather straps

What you will need:

outer fabric 1/2 - 3/4 yard (beige)

pocket fabric 1/2 yard (stripes)

lining fabric 1/2 - 3/4 yard (polka dots, seen later in tut)

Light weight fusible interfacing 1/2 yard

Terrycloth/fleece or medium weight stabilizer 1/2- 3/4 yard

A sew on snap button

1 x button

2 x leather straps

Cut out the following pieces of fabric: (leave a 1cm/0.4" allowance for all parts cut, and you may want to letter the parts of fabric as you cut them out.)

Tip: When cutting the fabric (Parts C,D,E,G,H and I) use a cup (or round object of choice)if you want rounded corners.

From both the outer fabric and stabilizer:

2 pieces: 13cm x 26.4cm (A: side pieces) (5.1" x 10.4")

1 piece: 13cm x 48.2cm (B: bottom piece) (5.1" x 19")

2 pieces: 38cm x 31.4cm(C: front and D: back) bottom corners rounded. (15" x 12.4")

From both the pocket fabric and fusible interfacing:

2 pieces: 38cm(width) x 42cm(height) (E: pocket fabric ) All corners rounded. (15" x 16.5")

From the lining fabric:

1 piece: 13cm x 101cm (F: side and bottom piece) (5.1" x 39.8")

2 pieces: 38cm x 31.4cm (G: front and H: back) Bottom corners rounded. (15" x 12.4")

For the flap (where the button attaches) from both the outer fabric and fusible interfacing:

2 pieces: 10.5cm x 17cm (I: flap) Top corners rounded. (4.1" x 6.7")

Iron the fusible interfacing onto the flap and pocket fabrics (parts E and I) and pin the stabilizer to the backs of the outer fabrics (parts A, B, C and D)

For the outer part of the bag:

Pin the side pieces(A) to either side of the bottom piece(B).

Sew in place, turn it over and top stitch the fabric. Do this with both side pieces (A).

Attach any labels/ribbons/embroidery that you choose, to the front side of one of the pockets (with attached fusible interfacing, Part E).

Next take the pocket (E) fold it in half and iron it flat.

Pin the pockets(E) to the right side of both the front(C) and back(D) pieces of your outer fabric.

Measure where the center of the pockets are and topstitch down the middle.

At this point I sew around the outer edge of the fabric (about 1/2cm/0.2" from the edge to make sure that all the layers stay in place. (you can just baste it if that suites you better.)

Pin the side and bottom piece (A and B), that you sewed earlier, to the front outer fabric (C). Lining up the edges, right sides facing each other.

Make sure that you line up the center of the pocket (E) with the center of the bottom part of A and B.

And sew it in place.

Do the same with the back piece (D).

This is what it looks like, turned right side out. If the sides are too long trim them so that they are level with the front and back of the bag. (I gave a large allowance on the sides, just in case, and it was totally unnecessary – so if you just cut according to the pattern sizes given this won't happen to you ;)

Now for the lining:

Pin the side and bottom piece (F) to the front part(G) of the lining fabric.

(Make sure to center it.)

Line up the edges and sew it in place.

Leave a sizable gap so that you can turn the bag right side out later.

Then pin the back piece (H) and sew it in place.

Putting it all together:

Turn the outer part of the bag inside out. Turn the lining right side out and place it in the outer part of the bag. (so right sides should be facing each other and you should only see the wrong side of each fabric.) Line up the edges and pin it in place

Sew along the edge and trim any unwanted seam edges. (I promise my cutting got straighter than this picture seems to imply. ;)

Then turn the bag right side out and sew closed the gap in the lining.

Pin the edges so that the lining can't be seen on the outside of the bag.

Top stitch all the way around.

Now for the flap.(Piece I)

(If you like round edges remember to round the front edges when cutting the pieces.)

Make a mark where you want to attach the sew on snap button and button, on either side of the right sides of both pieces (I did mine about 5cm/2" from the top, including seam allowance)

And sew on the snap button and button to the respective sides. (As you can see in the photo, if you are like me and need to unpick things a few times then, a little ironing might be necessary ;)

Place right sides facing each other and sew around the edges, leaving a gap at the bottom. Trim the edges.

The pictures below don't show the button and snap button because I might have forgotten about the button the first time round (this happens when you are trying to watch Downton Abbey while sewing) - but luckily there are wonderful things such as seam rippers :)

Turn it inside out and fold in the edges.

Before attaching the flap to the bag, make a mark where you want to attach the other side of the snap button, on the front of the bag (4cm/1.6" from the top, excluding seam allowance) and sew it in place.

Pin the flap to the back of the bag (make sure it's in the middle - I usually just fasten the snap button at the front to make sure it is centered) and then sew it at the back.

(Don't look too closely at that sewing above - my sewing machine that I use is super old, and in need of a service so there were a few tension issues.)

Now your bag should look like this:

Finally attach your leather straps to the width that suites you best. Mine are 24cm/9.4" apart. (This generally requires hand stitching and some patience)

And TA DA!! For the final step: stand back and marvel at what you have made.

Have fun sewing.

Blessings

Gabi

Reader Tutorial Week

2012-02-03T09:59:00.000-08:00

Check back every day next week for a new tutorial from one of my readers...here is a little sneak peak at the tutorial for Monday!

See you next week!!

$20 Lighting Set-up

2012-01-31T04:21:00.000-08:00

So the time has come that I needed to quit complaining about how poor my photos look, and do something about it. I had to admit to myself that I cannot keep writing bag patterns and taking step-by-step photos a) either sewing a couple of steps each night and dashing outside quickly during the day to take them during daylight b) taking ugly yellow-ish looking photos inside at night (which is when I do 90% of my sewing). Either way is not satisfactory, to me at least.

So I watched a few videos on Youtube, this being my favorite. If you'll watch the video, the man mentions making an acetate screen; I googled this and found literally nothing. In the process of watching other videos, I discovered that you can use either white organza fabric (single, double, or triple-folded), and in my case I used a white bedsheet. In my photo, you can see that my bedsheet is mounted on the frame on the right (which my husband assembled with some scrap wood, and screwed the sheet to the frame). There is a second light behind that bedsheet frame, if you can't tell by the photo.

I also got some coaching from my friend, Joel. He recommended using foam core board (which you can buy at Michaels). I *had* a piece, but I could not find it somehow, so that board on the left? That's a piece of drywall (we're remodeling the 2nd floor). The nice part about it is, it's large so I can lean it against the table from the floor, and also it's heavy enough that I can clip the light right on it. The table that I am using is white plastic, so if you have a table that isn't white, Joel recommends to put white paper or fabric over it, and even if possible let the fabric go off the table 4-5 feet and tape it to the wall (he says this is called a 'sweep', and if you are photographing something that won't be lying flat on the table, it will produce a nice gradient for you). You can also move that screen on the right closer or farther away from the light to alter the shadows. After I took my photos, he recommended for me to diffuse the light on the left (I did some research and found that someone recommended baking paper, since it won't catch on fire).

Both of the lamps in the photo are cheap $6 clamp lamps that I got at the hardware store; they're in the lighting section (it may seem obvious, but I had no idea). The bulbs are 100w 'daylight' bulbs, so they burn white and not yellowish like most fluorescent bulbs do.

The photo above is how I used to take my photos at night; at first glance, you might think the photo is not *too* bad (or maybe it is and you're just being polite). Please note that I am not using a flash in any of my pictures. However, when you compare it to the 2nd photo below, you can see how much better it looks:

So, I just wanted to share! This is definitely something you can do, too, and very cheaply at that! I'm sure I still have some things to tweak, but I feel like I've made night-and-day progress. I'm so happy with how this turned out...now I have one less thing to worry about. ;-)

Modern Mini Challenge

2012-01-30T05:41:00.000-08:00

Today I'm really happy to tell you about the Modern Mini Challenge that is beginning soon, over at Ellison Lane Quilts! The festivities will begin next Monday, with blog hops on the following websites:

2/6: Stitchery Dickory Dock

2/7: Fairy Face Designs & Amy's Creative Side

2/8: Lily's Quilts

2/9: Patchwork Notes

2/10: Don't Call Me Betsy & Flying Blind on a Rocket Cycle

2/11: Sukie, Don't You Know Who I Am?

2/12: Freshly Pieced

2/13: From the Blue Chair & Poppy Makes

2/14: Needles, Pins & Baking Tins

2/15: Mon Petit Lyons & Felicity Quilts

2/16: LR Stitched & Random Thoughts Do or Di

2/17: Life's Rich Pattern & Twin Fibers

2/18: Cut to Pieces & Sew Sweetness

2/19: Swim Bike Quilt

I'm near the end on the 18th (because I was worried about getting my butt into gear). ;-) I'll have a tutorial for a cute mini quilt for you!

Valentines Mini Quilt: http://www.canoeridgecreations.com/2012/01/how-to-valentines-day-mini-quilt.html

The series continues through March 6th, and the icing on the cake is the contest that culminates the whole series! Get ready, because you can win some *awesome* prizes!!

Contest Requirements:

1. Create a modern mini quilt or mug rug - only one entry per person

2. Enter your mini quilt or mug rug in the linky party at Ellison Lane Quilts on Monday, March 5.

You do NOT have to have a blog to enter. You may link a picture from your Flickr account.

3. Your entry (blog post or Flickr description) should include the size of the item

The five winners:

James’ choice (Jennifer's husband chooses his favorite)

Viewer’s choice Mug Rugs

Viewer’s choice Mini Quilts

(mug rugs and mini quilts- the viewers choose from a selection chosen by Jennifer and three other bloggers)

Luck of the Draw (Random Number Generator chooses 2 winners)

Prizes:

Both Viewer’s Choice Winners will receive a fat quarter bundle of the FULL LINE of Flea Market Fancy reprint by Denyse Schmidt.

James’ Choice Winner will receive a $100 gift certificate to the Fat Quarter Shop

Both Luck of the Draw Winners will receive a $75 gift certificate to Fat Quarter Shop

I don't know about you, but I would be ecstatic about winning *any* of those prizes! How awesome!

So get your creative juices flowing...the blog hop starting next Monday should provide plenty of inspiration! Or what about grabbing a button for Jennifer's blog? :-)

Solstice Stars QAL - Block 1 Ribbon Star

2012-01-19T05:45:00.000-08:00

I decided to join Faith's Solstice Stars quilt along last week. The blocks are beautiful, and I definitely wanted to use some Kona solids for mine. I didn't know what to use for my background fabric, at first I thought gray, then maybe a polka dot in black/white, but I found this charcoal gray print in my stash and figured, what the heck? I went back and forth about whether to make a full-sized quilt or not, but I think I will just make a wall hanging for my sewing room with all 5 blocks straight across.

Surprisingly, I finished block 1 right on time. The first block was the Ribbon Star. I had a lot of fun, and the block was quick and easy to finish thanks to Faith's instruction.

It's definitely not too late to join in! Click the button below to take you to the full schedule and tutorials!

Tutorial: The Frou Frou Bag

2012-01-18T10:10:00.001-08:00

Another bag sewing pattern! This one is suitable for an intermediate seamstress and features pretty ruffled flaps, snap closure, and an adjustable strap! The small front pockets are also 3-dimensional. The beautiful detailing on this bag combines with functionality - it has 4 inner pockets and can hold a lot of stuff! I wrote this pattern for Pellon Projects, your stop for other great free tutorials using Pellon interfacing.

If you have any questions about this pattern, feel free to e-mail me directly at sara@sewsweetness.com, or check out my Flickr Group! I would love to see your completed project posted there!

SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 1/2" UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING.

Printable Pattern and Pattern Pieces

Finished size: 12" tall x 16" long

SUPPLIES

- 1 yard exterior fabric

- 1 yard interior fabric

- fat quarter of fabric for the ruffles

- 3-1/2 yards of Pellon SF-101 fusible woven interfacing

- 1-1/2 yards of Pellon fusible fleece

- metal slider and rectangle ring (1-1/2")

- three 1/2" magnetic snaps
- ruler
- fabric marker or chalk

*if you have difficulty locating the metal slider and rectangle ring, you can find them here.

STEP 1 ~ CUT OUT YOUR FABRICS

From the Exterior Fabric

1a. Cut a strip measuring 5" x 40". This will be your Strap. Cut a strip measuring 5" x 5". This will be your Strap Extender.

1b. Cut a strip measuring 4" x 37". This will be your Exterior Side Panel.

1c. Using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut 2 each on the fold. These will be your Exterior Main Panels.

1d. Using the Large Flap pattern piece, cut 1 on the fold. This will be your Exterior Large Flap.

1e. Using the Small Flap pattern piece, cut 2 each on the fold. These will be your Exterior Small Flaps.

1f. Cut 2 rectangles, each measuring 6" long x 5" high. These will be your Exterior Small Pockets.

1g. Cut 2 strips, each measuring 2" x 13-1/2". These will be your Pocket Panels.

From your Interior Fabric

1h. Repeat Steps 1b. through 1g.

1i. Take your Main Panel pattern piece and fold down at the dashed line. Cut 4 each on the fold. These will be your Inner Pockets.

From your Pellon Woven Interfacing

1j. Repeat Steps 1a. through 1h.

From your Pellon Fusible Fleece

1k. Repeat Steps 1b. through 1g. Also repeat Steps 1b. through 1e. for the interior. Trim all of Flap fleece pieces by 1/2" on all sides, in order to reduce bulk in the seam allowance.

1l. Cut 3 scraps of fleece, each approximately 2" x 2".

STEP 2 ~ FUSE YOUR FABRICS

2a. Take 1 Exterior Main Panel and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse the woven interfacing to the wrong side of the Exterior Main Panel using manufacturer instructions. Repeat for all of your fabric pieces except for the Inner Pockets.

2b. With your Exterior Main Panel piece and the corresponding piece of fusible fleece, place the fusible side of the fleece against the woven interfacing. Fuse using manufacturer instructions. Repeat for all of the Exterior fabric pieces, as well as the Interior Main Panels and the Interior Side Panels.

STEP 3 ~ ASSEMBLE THE STRAP

3a. Fold your Strap in half along the long edge. Press. Fold the bottom long edge of the strap up toward the creased center. Press. Also fold down the top long edge of the strap down toward the creased center. Press.

3b. Topstitch along both long edges, 1/8" from each edge.

3c. Repeat Steps 3a. and 3b. for the Strap Extender.

STEP 4 ~ ASSEMBLE THE FLAPS

4a. Lay your fat quarter out in front of you. You are going to cut bias strips from the fabric, so use your ruler to cut 2" strips at a 45 degree angle, across the entire fat quarter.

4b. Now you will sew all of your strips together. First attach 2 strips, right sides together, at a 90 degree angle. Draw a diagonal line (at 45 degrees) connecting the top left and bottom right corners, then stitch on the line.

4c. Trim the 'tail' from the strip. Trim your fabric down to a 1/4" seam allowance, then press seam open. Continue adding strips until you've used them all.

4d. Press your newly-made bias strip in half length-wise. Trim your bias into one 46" strip and two strips that are each 24" long. Now you are going to gather the fabric to create the ruffles. Sew a row of basting stitches that are 1/8" from the raw edge, and another row of basting stitches that are 1/4" from the raw edge.

4e. Gently pull the thread on each side to gather your fabric. Gather the fabric until the longer strip now measures 23", and the shorter strips should now measure 12". Evenly distribute the gathers. Set aside.

4f. Take your Interior Large Flap. Fold it in half, lengthwise, and lightly finger press the crease. Make a mark with your fabric marker that is 1" up from the curved edge, and that intersects the center crease.

4g. You will be using the smaller half of the magnetic snap. Take out the washer and place it on the mark that you made on the Interior Flap. Make a mark, using the washer, where the slits are to go. Use your scissors and cut small slits where the marks are. Repeat this for the center of one of your 2"x2" scraps of fleece. The reason that you are using the fleece is that it will help to reinforce your fabric against the pull from the magnetic snap every time you open and shut the flap.

Helpful Hint: I like to put a dab of Fray Check on the slits that were cut. I feel this helps the fabric hold up a bit better under the stress of the magnetic snap.

4h. Slide the prongs of the snap through the right side of the Interior Large Flap. Place the fleece square, then the washer, over the prongs. Close the prongs outward (use pliers with a piece of scrap fabric over the metal, if you need to), making sure they lie flat.

4i. Take the long ruffle and pin it along the curved edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Begin the short edge of the ruffle 1/2" from the corner of the Exterior Main Panel. The raw edge of the ruffle should be even with the curved edge. You will also want to "fade" each short edge of the ruffle toward the outer corner of the flap so that you will have no raw edges from the ruffles showing once both flap pieces are sewn together. Stitch along the curved edge using a 1/4" seam allowance. Trim excess ruffles.

4j. Take your Exterior Large Flap and your Interior Large Flap, and place them right sides together. Sew along the curved edge, slightly to the left of the line of stitches from step 4j. in order to hide the previous stitch (do not sew the straight edge). Notch your seam (cutting small v's every 1/2"), being careful not to cut into the stitching. Turn your fabric right side out and press.

4k. Topstitch the Flap, 1/4" from the edge, along the edge that you sewed in Step 4j.

4l. Repeat Steps 4f. through 4j. for the Small Flap pieces, except you will be sewing 1" past the corner and into the straight edge and trimming the corners, leaving a small opening.

4m. Turn your fabric right side out and press. Also press the opening in by 1/2". Topstitch both Small Flaps on the curved edge, 1/4" from the edge.

STEP 5 ~ ASSEMBLE THE EXTERIOR SMALL POCKETS

5a. Take 1 of your Exterior Small Pocket pieces and the larger half of the magnetic snap. Fold the Exterior Small Pocket in half along the 6" edge. Measure down 2" from the top and insert the snap using the same method that you did for the flaps. Repeat for the other Exterior Small Pocket.

5b. Take 1 Exterior Small Pocket and 1 Interior Small Pocket and place them, right sides together. Beginning on the 6" side (the side with the snap closest to it), about 1" from the corner, start your stitching. Pivot at the corners, sewing 3 sides. Pivot at the last corner, then sew up about 1". You will be leaving one 6" edge open about 4". Trim all 4 corners.

5c. Turn your fabrics right side out. Press, making sure to also press the opening in by 1/2". Topstitch along the 6" edge with the opening, with a 1/4" seam allowance. This will seal your opening closed.

5d. Repeat Steps 5b. and 5c. for the other Small Pocket pieces.

5e. Take 1 Exterior Pocket Panel and 1 Interior Pocket Panel and place them, right sides together. Beginning on the 13-1/2" side, about 5" from the corner, start your stitching. Pivot at the corners, sewing 3 sides. Pivot at the last corner, then sew up about 5". You will be leaving one 13-1/2" edge open about 3-1/2". Trim all 4 corners.

5f. Turn your fabrics right side out. Press, making sure to also press the opening in by 1/2".

5g. Take 1 Small Pocket and 1 Pocket Panel. Place them, exterior sides facing. You will be sewing the long edge of the Pocket Panel flush with the 3 edges of the Pocket (the edge with the topstitching will be at the top, and you will leave this edge alone). Also, sew the side of the Pocket Panel so that you will sew the opening closed in this step. Sew using a 1/4" seam allowance. Press seam toward the Small Pocket. Repeat for the remaining Small Pocket and Pocket Panel.

Helpful Hint: I recommend sewing both of the sides of the pocket first, then the bottom and corners, in order to distribute the Pocket Panel evenly.

5h. Now take out 1 Exterior Main Panel and 1 assembled Small Pocket. Measure on the Exterior Main Panel that is 1-1/4" up from the bottom, and over 2". Draw a rectangle that is 4" high x 5" long, with the bottom left corner at your point. Flip your Pocket Panel exterior side out. Place the Small Pocket between these lines and pin.

5i. Sew along the unsewn long edge of the Pocket Panel using a 1/8" seam allowance (you will be sewing the interior of the Pocket Panel against the Exterior Main Panel). This will attach the Pocket to the Exterior Main Panel. When finished, the Pocket should stand away from the Exterior Main Panel (it should not be completely flat).

5j. Repeat Steps 5h. and 5i. for the remaining Pocket Panel and the right edge of the Exterior Main Panel.

STEP 6 ~ ATTACHING THE FLAPS

6a. Take your Large Flap and the Exterior Main Panel that doesn't have the pockets. Place the raw edge of the Large Flap against the top edge of the Exterior Main Panel, with the exterior fabrics touching. The Large Flap should be centered. Pin. Sew along the pinned edge with a 1/4" seam allowance.

6b. Now take 1 of your Small Flaps and the Exterior Main Panel with the pockets. Pin the Small Flap at the top of the Small Pocket, with the straight edge of the Flap flush with the top of the Small Pocket. The exterior fabric of the Small Flap should be facing the Exterior Main Panel (in other words, the magnetic snap should be facing you). Before you begin to sew, make sure that your flap looks straight after the magnetic snaps have closed; if not, make an adjustment. Topstitch the straight edge of the Small Flap 1/4" from the edge. Repeat for the other Small Flap and Small Pocket.

STEP 7 ~ ASSEMBLE THE EXTERIOR

7a. Take the Exterior Main Panel with the pockets on it. Fold the Exterior Main Panel in half, pressing a finger crease to find the center point. Then measure down from the top 3-3/4". Make a mark intersecting that point and the center point. Insert the large half of a magnetic snap using the technique that you used earlier.

7b. Take the Exterior Side Panel. Fold in half along the short edge. On the right side, make a mark 9" down from the short raw edges, and a mark in 3/4" from that raw edge. Connect the two marks that you made with a line. Repeat for the left edge.

7c. Cut along the lines on the right and the left sides.

7c. Take 1 of the Exterior Main Panels and place it, right side facing you. Place the short edge of the Exterior Side Panel at the top of the Exterior Main Panel, right sides facing.

7d. Begin pinning the Exterior Side Panel to the curved edge of the Exterior Main Panel, easing it along. Continue until you reach the opposite top edge of the Exterior Main Panel.

Helpful Hint: If you have difficulty pinning along the curve, try leaving it unpinned and just easing it along slowly with your fingers.

7e. Sew along the pinned edge. Notch along the curved edge (cut small v's), every 1/2". Be careful not to cut into the seam allowance. Press the seam open.

7f. Repeat Steps 6a. through 6c. to attach the remaining Exterior Main Panel to the other long edge of the Exterior Side Panel.

7g. These next few steps will help you install your metal slide and rectangle, which will make your strap adjustable! If you have never done this before, after today, you will want to use this every single time, it's that easy! First take the metal rectangle and slide it onto the middle of your Strap Extender. Place the Strap Extender against the Exterior Side Panel (I started with the left side of my bag, but either is fine). Baste in place using a 1/4" seam allowance.

7h. Next, take your Strap and slide it through the metal slide. The strap should go over and under the metal bar in the middle, as pictured.

7i. Baste one end of the Strap to the other Exterior Side Panel (this time I did the right side), using a 1/4" seam allowance.

7j. Slide the loose part of your Strap through the metal rectangle (that's the part attached to the Strap Extender).

7k. Now slide that loose part of the strap over and under the metal bar on your slide. It is going to go underneath the part of the strap that you had placed through the slide previously. Fold about 1/2" of the very end of the strap under and topstitch that end. Hopefully you can see by the photo which part to sew where. If you can't adjust your strap, then you've sewn something on to the wrong place.

STEP 8 ~ ASSEMBLE THE INTERIOR

8a. Take 2 of your Inner Pocket pieces and place them, right sides together. Sew along the straight edge only.

8b. Press the seam open. Turn the fabrics so that they are wrong sides together, press again, and topstitch the straight edge, 1/4" from the edge.

8c. Take 1 Interior Main Panel, and place the Inner Pocket that you just sewed, with the bottom edges of both even. Baste the Inner Pocket to the Interior Main Panel using a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger press a crease down the center of your Interior Main Panel. Sew on top of the Inner Pocket only, down that center crease (this will divide your pocket into 2 sections).

8d. Repeat Steps 8a. through 8c. for the remaining Inner Pocket and Interior Main Panel.

8e. USING A 5/8" SEAM ALLOWANCE (this will help the interior sit snuggly in the exterior), repeat Steps 7a. through 7f. to attach the Interior Main Panels to the Interior Side Panel. HOWEVER, make sure to leave a 6" opening when attaching one of the Interior Main Panels to the Interior Side Panel (it is best to leave the opening at the bottom of the bag). This will help you turn your bag right-side out later.

STEP 9 ~ FINISHING THE BAG

9a. With the Exterior right sides out and the Interior wrong sides out, place the Exterior inside the Interior. Be sure to push the Strap and Flap inside between the layers.

9b. Pin, making sure to match side seams. Sew all along the top edge.

9c. Turn the bag, right side out, through the opening in the Interior.

9d. Sew the opening in the Interior closed, either with a 1/4" seam, or sew by hand.

9e. Press well. The key to a professional-looking bag is a good pressing!

CONGRATULATIONS! You've finished!!

Sewing Insecurities

2012-01-17T23:44:00.000-08:00

What are your sewing insecurities??

Me, I am very insecure about things in general, and I think I always have been. What I say (or not say), how I look, what I do. I never fit in, I always felt awkward. I think as I get older, certain things that I am insecure about bother me less and less. Maybe I am just too tired of caring too much, or maybe I am too busy with other things to bother.

As far as sewing goes, I am insecure about garment sewing, and about quilting, in that order. I feel like I have only dipped my foot in with both, and also that my cutting-corners-to-get-it-finished qualities may not be the best idea ~~sometimes~~ all the time.

I am insecure about having 'conversations' with big bloggers...recently I did, with a few that I had pretty much idolized. I told myself, "Hey self, they're just regular people," but well, I just feel awkward. Like someone just caught me carrying a handbag that I made myself, but the strap broke (which will be a true story soon, because today I noticed, with a bag that I made last year, that I hadn't sewn the strap in securely and it was coming halfway out! lol!).

So anyway, I just wanted to share with you, because some days I feel a little less than fearless. But that doesn't stop me from tackling a sewing project, and it shouldn't stop you either. Even if you have just started sewing, work on as many projects as you can. Each one will teach you a new thing.

Until tomorrow...I will leave you with a photo of my new bag tutorial that I'll be posting. I just need to photograph one more set of steps (darn you 2am approaching! I just needed another hour! lol).

Quilt Along over at Fresh Lemons

2012-01-12T20:17:00.000-08:00

In light of my post from yesterday full of 2012 sewing goals, I probably should not be doing this, but I just can't resist. It's the Solstice Stars Quilt Along over at Fresh Lemons. I'm definitely going to do mine up in solids.

And look! Joann Fabrics has the Kona solids on sale starting this Sunday. It must be a sign. ;-)

2012 Sewing Goals

2012-01-11T19:17:00.000-08:00

I am taking a bit of a sewing breather this week, after finishing Urban Jungle Bag sewing pattern, and it got me to thinking about where I started out as a blogger, and where I'm at now. The 2 photos you're looking at above are bags that I made in the summer of 2008, way before I started blogging (the Amy Butler Birdie Sling, and the Grand Revival Market Bag).

I reformatted my Pattern Reviews page over the last couple of days, and in doing so, I had to revisit all the project postings that I had made. In retrospect, some of my work was really horrible! I look at things that were fused wrong, or things I made mistakes on. It just proves that there is a learning curve, and you never stop finding out new or better ways to do something.

So, to make a long story short, that was then and this is now. Here are some of my blog and sewing goals for 2012:

* You may see less completed projects on my blog this year than you are used to seeing. I have my heart set on putting out more (free) bag and purse sewing patterns out into the world. These patterns take 7-10 days each to write the instructions for, shoot the step-by-step photos, and sew them up. During that time, I can't even think about anything else! Maybe you are not interested in bag patterns...or maybe you are? I would like to put out 1 or 2 new bag patterns a month.

* I would still like to get a few quilts made this year (even if they are mini quilts!). There is a particular sampler quilt that is available from local quilt shops carrying Amanda Murphy's Veranda fabrics. The quilt pattern is called Under the Veranda. I originally purchased the pattern and the Veranda fabric as a kit, but I believe I am going to do mine up in Echino fabrics, combined with coordinating (bright!) solids instead.

* I'd like to make some more pretty things for our home!

* This year, I joined Sew Weekly as a contributor. This awesome website sets garment sewing challenges every week. Although this year is probably going to be a busy one for me, I'd like to finish at least 1 piece of clothing a month...how great would it be to slowly make handmade clothing a majority in my closet!

In spite of all these, I would still like to put as much of an effort into my blog as I am able. I will try my best to keep the posts going, in between writing new bag sewing patterns and working on other sewing projects in between.

What are YOUR sewing goals for 2012? :-)

Pellon Bag Interfacing Giveaway

2012-01-09T18:37:00.000-08:00

It's time for another Pellon giveaway! I'll bet you can't wait to get your hands on this prize pack, especially if you have some bag-making in your future! Good luck!!

One lucky winner will receive the following:
- 2 yards of Pellon Peltex #71 one-sided fusible - this is great for making a wonderfully stiff bag!
- 2 yards of Pellon #810 Tru-Grid - I like using this for tracing pattern pieces. It's great to use (and store!) because it doesn't rip, and it's very light-weight, so it will fit great inside your pattern envelope.
- 2 yards of Pellon SF-101 fusible woven - my most favorite interfacing, I use this in everything!!
- 2 yards of Pellon #809 Decor Bond - I recently started using this on several projects, and I've found that doubling it up can give a nice stiff effect, similar to other extra-heavy interfacing!
- 2 yards of Pellon Fusible Fleece - I also use this in about every other project
- 1 pack of Odegon Odor Tags - these are iron-on tags that prevent odor in garments. Would be great for work-out or outdoors gear!

*unfortunately, due to the size and weight of this prize pack, U.S. entrants only. I really wish I could include everyone :-(

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE GIVEAWAY!

My new free bag sewing pattern, made using Pellon products

Tutorial: The Urban Jungle Bag

2012-01-09T09:15:00.000-08:00

Welcome to another bag sewing pattern! I created this pattern for Pellon Projects, and it is intended for an advanced seamstress. It features leather handles and accent detailing on the front and side, as well as a top zip. There is a flap pocket on the front of the bag as well! I hope you'll enjoy making this bag!

ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 1/2" UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING.

Printable Instructions and Pattern Pieces

Finished size: 9.5" tall x 14" long

SUPPLIES

- 1/2 yard exterior fabric
- 1 yard interior fabric
- 2 yards Pellon SF-101 fusible woven interfacing
- 1 yard Pellon 520F (or you may substitute 1 yard Pellon Peltex 70 Ultra-Firm Sew-In combined with 1 yard fusible woven interfacing)
- 1/2 yard Pellon fusible fleece
- 20" zipper
- 23" - 28" leather handles (I used size 28" handles for a shoulder bag)
- 1/2" magnetic snap
- zipper foot
- seam ripper
- coordinating thread
- hand sewing needle
- fabric marker or chalk

- ruler

Helpful Hint: I purchased my handles here; I found these to be the best price around, and the quality is exceptional.

STEP 1 ~ CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC

From the Exterior Fabric

1a. Using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold. Repeat to cut 2 panels. These will be your Exterior Main Panels.

1b. With the Flap pattern piece, cut 1 on the fold. This will be your Exterior Flap.

1c. Cut a piece measuring 5-1/2" tall by 14" long. This will be your Exterior Bottom Panel.

1d. Cut 2 pieces that each measure 5-1/2" tall by 5-1/2" long. These will be your Exterior Side Panels.

From the Interior Fabric

1e. With the Main Panel pattern piece, cut 4 each on the fold. These will be your Interior Main Panels.

1f. Using the Flap pattern piece, cut 1 on the fold. This will be your Interior Flap.

1g. Cut a piece measuring 5-1/2" tall by 14" long. This will be your Interior Bottom Panel.

1h. Cut 2 each, with each piece measuring 5-1/2" tall by 5-1/2" long. These will be your Interior Side Panels.

1i. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 4-3/4" x 22". These will be your Zipper Panels.

1j. Using your Side Accent pattern piece, cut 4 pieces. Also cut 2 pieces that are each 3-1/2" tall by 5-1/2" long. These will be your Side Accent pieces.

From the Fusible Woven Interfacing

1k. Repeat Steps 2e. through 2j.

From the Fusible Fleece

1l. Repeat Step 2i. Also cut 1 Main Panel and 1 Flap. Cut 2 small 2" x 2" scraps of fleece as well.

From the Pellon 520F
(if you are using Pellon Peltex sew-in interfacing instead, please cut Step 2l. as 1 layer of fusible woven and 1 layer of Peltex sew-in; you will trim the Peltex by 1/2" on all sides. For all future instructions referring to Pellon 520F, you will do this instead: place the Peltex against the wrong side of your fabric, centered. Follow that with one piece of fusible woven interfacing, with the fusible side against the Peltex. Fuse in place, sealing the Peltex against your fabric).

1m. Cut 2 each of the Main Panels, 1 each of the Flap, 2 each of the Side Panels, and 1 each of the Bottom Panel.

STEP 2 ~ FUSE YOUR FABRICS

2a. Take 1 Interior Main Panel and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse the woven interfacing to the wrong side of the Interior Main Panel using manufacturer instructions. Repeat for 2 more Interior Main Panels. Also repeat for the Interior Bottom, the Interior Flap, and the Interior Side Panels.

2b. Take the remaining Interior Main Panel and one of the Main Panel pieces cut from Pellon 520F and fuse to the wrong side of your fabric following manufacturer instructions. Repeat for only 1 of the Exterior Main Panels, the Exterior Flap, the Exterior Bottom, and the Exterior Side Panels.

2c. Use the remaining Exterior Main Panel and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse the woven interfacing to the wrong side of the Exterior Main Panel. Then fuse the fusible fleece against the fusible woven interfacing. Repeat for the 2 Zipper Panels.

STEP 3 ~ ASSEMBLE THE FLAP

3a. Take your Interior Flap. Fold it in half, lengthwise, and lightly finger press the crease. Make a mark with your fabric marker that is 2" down from the longest straight edge.

3b. You will be using the smaller half of the magnetic snap. Take out the washer and place it on the mark that you made on the Interior Flap. Make a mark, using the washer, where the slits are to go. Use your scissors and cut small slits where the marks are. Repeat this for the center of one of your 2"x2" scraps of fleece. The reason that you are using the fleece is that it will help to reinforce your fabric against the pull from the magnetic snap every time you open and shut the flap.

Helpful Hint: I like to put a dab of Fray Check on the slits that were cut. I feel this helps the fabric hold up a bit better under the stress of the magnetic snap.

3c. Slide the prongs of the snap through the right side of the Interior Flap. Place the fleece square, then the washer, over the prongs. Close the prongs outward (use pliers with a piece of scrap fabric over the metal, if you need to), making sure they lie flat.

3d. Take your Exterior Flap and your Interior Flap, and place them right sides together. Sew along the curved edge using a 1/4" seam allowance (do not sew the straight edge). Notch your seam (cutting small v's every 1/2"), being careful not to cut into the stitching. Turn your fabric right side out and press.

3e. Topstitch the Flap, 1/8" from the edge, along the edge that you sewed in Step 4d.

STEP 4 ~ ATTACH THE ACCENT PIECES

4a. Take one of your square Side Accent Pieces and press one 5-1/2" edge down by 1/2". Topstitch 1/4" from the edge. Repeat for the other Side Accent Piece.

4b. Take 1 of the Side Accent Pieces and 1 of your Exterior Side Panels. Place the Side Accent Piece at the bottom of the Exterior Side Panel, so both bottom edges are even. Topstitch on top of the Side Accent Piece, 1/8" from the finished edge of the Side Accent Piece. Then baste the remaining 3 edges of the Side Accent Piece in place.

4c. Take 1 of your curved Side Accent Pieces. Topstitch on the curved edge only, 1/4" from the edge.

4d. Using your iron, turn the stitched edge under and press along the curve. It helps to slowly press the edge with your fingers and then inch along with the iron. Repeat Step 4c. and Step 4d. for the other 3 curved Side Accent Pieces.

4e. Place 1 curved Side Accent Piece in the bottom left-hand corner of the Exterior Main Panel (the piece fused to the 520F). Topstitch the Side Accent Piece, 1/8" from the edge. Also topstitch again, 1/4" from the edge. Baste the 2 straight edges of the Side Accent Piece in place. Repeat for 1 more curved Side Accent Piece and the right-hand edge of the Exterior Main Panel.

4f. Repeat Step 4e. for the remaining 2 curved Side Accent Pieces, and the Exterior Main Panel that you interfaced with the fusible fleece.

STEP 5 ~ ASSEMBLE THE OUTER POCKET

5a. Take the Exterior Main Panel piece that you interfaced with the fusible fleece, and the remaining half of the magnetic snap. Fold the Exterior Main Panel in half and finger press a crease to find the center. The measure up 7" from the bottom of the Exterior Main Panel and make a mark intercepting the center point. Insert the other half of the snap, using the same method that you used for the Flap.

5b. Take the Exterior Main Panel piece from Step 5a., and 1 of your Interior Main Panels. Trim 1/2" off the top of each piece (the top is the slightly shorter edge). With the 2 pieces right sides together, sew along the edge that you just trimmed.

5c. Turn your panels right sides out and press. Topstitch 1/4" along the finished edge.

5d. Place the panels that you just sewed, against the right side of the Interior Main Panel that is interfaced with the 520F. The bottom, unfinished edge of the panels should be even with the bottom of the Interior Main Panel. Baste in place along both side edges and the bottom edge.

5e. With the exterior side of the Flap facing you, baste the long, unfinished edge of the flap (centered) with the top of the Interior Main Panel from Step 5c (close the snap first). This unit will now be referred to as one of the Exterior Main Panels.

5f. Take the completed Exterior Main Panel with the flap, and one of your handles. Place the left end of the handle up 5" from the bottom and over 2-1/2" from the left. Make sure your handle tab is free of the flap so that you are able to open and close it (the strap will be on top of the flap while you are wearing the bag). You may need to adjust the placement depending on the handles you have chosen. Sew the handle tab in place. If your tabs are thick, you may need to hand-crank your needle, or even hand sew. Repeat to secure the right end of the handle. Follow this step to attach the other Handle to the remaining Exterior Main Panel.

The handles will be stitched through a small portion of the pocket; this is important so that the stitches go through the Pellon 520F to add stability to the area where the handle tabs are.

STEP 6 ~ INSERT THE ZIPPER

6a. Take your Exterior Zipper Panel and cut it in half, lengthwise.

6b. Place the resulting 2 pieces right sides together. With your fabric marker, measure and make a mark that is 1" in from that left-hand edge. Do the same for the right-hand edge. Sew from the mark to the corresponding edge (each line of stitching will be only 1" long), using a 5/8" seam allowance.

6c. Set your machine to a basting stitch. Baste, using a 5/8" seam allowance, in between the 2 lines of stitching from Step 6b. Press the seam open.

6d. The wrong side of your Exterior Zipper Panel should be facing you. Take your zipper and place it face down on top of the Zipper Panel. The zipper teeth should be approximately on top of the basting stitches. Pin in place.

6e. Put the zipper foot on your sewing machine, and sew along 1 long edge, pivot, sew the short edge, pivot, sew the remaining long edge, pivot, and finally sew the remaining short edge. You should sew approximately 1/4" away from the zipper teeth.

6f. With the right side of the Exterior Zipper Panel facing you, remove the basting stitches with your seam ripper.

STEP 7 ~ ASSEMBLE THE EXTERIOR

7a. Place 1 of your Exterior Side Panels in front of you, so that the Accent Piece is at the bottom. Make a mark at the top of your Exterior Side Panel, that is in 3/4" from the top left-hand corner. Draw a line from the mark you made, down to the bottom left-hand corner of the Exterior Side Panel. Repeat for the right-hand side of the Exterior Side Panel. Cut along both lines and discard the slivers.

7b. Take 1 Exterior Side Panel and your Exterior Zipper Panel. Place them, right sides together. The short edge of the Exterior Side Panel should be even with the short edge of the Exterior Zipper Panel. Sew along the short edge, and press the seam toward the Exterior Side Panel. Topstitch on top of the Exterior Side Panel, both 1/4" and 1/8" from the seam that you sewed in this step.

7c. Repeat Step 7b. for the remaining Exterior Side Panel, and the other end of the Exterior Zipper Panel.

7d. Take one of your Exterior Main Panels and the assembled Side Panel. Place the long edge of the Side Panel flush with the outer edge of the Exterior Main Panel, starting at the bottom left-hand corner of the Exterior Main Panel. Pin in place, moving up the side of the Exterior Main Panel. When you get to the top left-hand corner of the Exterior Main Panel, ease the Side Panel around the corner, then continue across the top of the Exterior Main Panel. Ease through the top right-hand corner as well, and continue until you have reached the bottom right-hand corner of the Exterior Main Panel.

Helpful Hint: I found it easier to sew the sides first, then the top of the bag, leaving the corners for last. I was able to more evenly distribute the side panel when attaching it to the exterior panels.

7e. Sew along the edges that you just pinned. Notch (cut small v's) the seam allowance at both of the top corners. Press seams open.

7f. Repeat Steps 7d. and 7e. for the remaining Exterior Main Panel.

7g. Unzip your zipper (this is important so that you will be able to turn your exterior right sides out). Take your Exterior Bottom Panel and place it underneath your completed Exterior. Line up the raw edges of both, making sure the corners are even, and pin in place.

7h. Sew along one of the short edges, starting and stopping 1/2" from the corner. Repeat for the other short edges and both long edges. Trim the bottom corners, being careful not to cut into your seam allowance.

STEP 8 ~ ASSEMBLE THE INTERIOR

8a. Repeat Step 6a. and Step 6b. for the Interior Zipper Panel.

8b. Press the seam allowance of the long edge of the Interior Zipper Panel to 1/2" (the center of the panel will be unsewn, but press the entire long edge anyway).

8c. Repeat Steps 7a. through 7h. with all of the interior pieces, except you will be using a 5/8" seam allowance. This is important so that your interior will sit more snug inside the exterior of the bag.

8d. Turn your exterior right side out and your interior wrong side out. Place the interior inside of the exterior (so that wrong sides will be touching). Pin in place in several randomly-chosen areas, and also pin the pressed edges of the Interior Zipper Panel against the wrong side of your zipper.

8d. With your hand sewing needle and coordinating thread, hand sew the pressed edge of the Interior Zipper Panel from Step 8b., to the wrong side of your zipper. You may also wish to hand sew a few stitches on the right side and the left side of the bag to hold the interior in place.

Congratulations, you've finished!!

Please give your bag a careful pressing for a nice, professional look.

If you have any questions about this pattern, feel free to e-mail me directly at sara@sewsweetness.com, or check out my Flickr Group! I would love to see your completed project posted there!

Daily Tutorial E-mails from Sew Can She

2012-01-02T18:16:00.000-08:00

I just wanted to tell you about a great new site that I just found out about, called Sew Can She. The site features daily free tutorials, and you can sign up to get the tutorials via e-mail. Being that I am a big fan of Craft Gossip, this site looks really good to me as well! I just signed up last week, but I've already gotten several tutorials in my e-mail, and they all look like great projects.

The best part about it, for me, is that it doesn't take a lot of my time. I can get the e-mails every day, browse them quickly, and if it's a project that I like and want to make, I can pop it in my Pinterest to file away for later. Easy peasy!

Beflowered...Quilted!

2011-12-28T18:27:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone! I hope you enjoyed your holiday! I'm just popping in quickly to show you a quilt that I made the top for, a couple of months ago. I tested the Beflowered quilt pattern for Amanda Murphy Design (I *love* all of her patterns!). You can see my original post about this quilt here.

I gave this quilt to my mom for Christmas. I snipped the last threads off of it, oh, about an hour before lunch on Christmas Day. lol!!

I'm not sure if you can see by the photo, but I quilted the triangles, 1/4" off each seam. I left the appliqued black flower petals alone. I'm sure it would have looked better with some more creative quilting, but I do like how it turned out. And if you check my original post, you'll see that the quilt did not have straight edges, but more of a large zig-zag edge...I knew I would not have time to finagle the binding on that one, so I trimmed it to be straight before I bound it.

I want to take a minute to thank you for reading my blog this year...I hope you have a happy New Year full of lots of time for sewing! :-) I am not sure how much I will be able to post in January, as I'm working on some new (free) bag patterns for you, to be posted here and on Pellon Projects (I am writing 2 of them as we speak, with plans to finish them in the next 4-6 weeks). And a couple of secret projects, but more on those later in the year. :-)

Christmas Tree Skirt

2011-12-19T05:54:00.000-08:00

So! I've finally finished my Christmas tree skirt! I sort of took my time on this one. I've felt slightly lackluster about sewing lately, probably because of all the other things that need to be organized for the holiday. But, Christmas is almost hear, so time to relax and have a cup of hot cocoa.

I used Kim's magnificent tree skirt tutorial for this project. It utilizes the Drunkard's Path blocks.

Fabric - I used 13 different fat quarters for my prints (well, really they were 1/2 yard pieces, but I only used half of each). For the solids, I purchased 4 different 1/2 yard pieces. I had extra left over of the solids, so I used the remnants of those to cut bias strips (each strip I cut at 4"), pieced them together, then used my ruffler foot to make the ruffles (although you can also gather them by machine by running 2 rows of basting and pulling the threads). I had barely enough of the ruffles (in fact, I had to let some ruffle out in order to make it all the way around the circle!). For the backing, I used 1 yard of a candy cane striped fabric. I didn't have any batting on hand, so I used 1 yard of Pellon Thermolam (it's 1-sided fusible, so I fused it onto my tree skirt top and quilted it).

I used my Accuquilt GO! Baby to cut the fabric for this project, although you can certainly use any Drunkard's Path template (they are 3-1/2" squares that finish up at 7" blocks when piecing 4 together).

Pattern Pieces - There were no pattern pieces, although I did borrow my grandmother's tree skirt to trace it onto newspaper so that I could transfer the markings to my tree skirt after I had pieced it.

Illustrations/Instructions - Kim has a lot of photos in her tutorial, which is really helpful. I had a great time piecing the curved edges, they really do look so wonderful (and not hard!)! These were great blocks for the tree skirt, and I love how the solids look like polka dots and/or ornaments!

Conclusion - Great little quilted project, if you have another quilt under your belt, you'll be fine! It's also a wonderful opportunity to try a new technique!

Merry Christmas to everyone!!

'12 Days of Christmas' Quilt Along...Surprise Linky Party!

2011-12-13T10:25:00.000-08:00

This linky is now closed. Krista has drawn a winner, #7 sewfunbymonique!

If you have been following along with the '12 Days of Christmas' Sampler Quilt Along, here is your chance to win a surprise prize!! The lovely Krista has generously donated a 'Bistro' jelly roll to one lucky winner, who will be chosen at random! Thank you so much Krista!!!

What do you have to do to be entered? Well, all I need to see from you is one completed block (if you've completed more, or even the entire quilt, that's fine, just please link up only one photo per person)! Link it up below, and good luck! Linky will be open through Friday. :-)

I hope you all had a wonderful time participating; if you ran out of time, there's always next year to complete the quilt (which I will be doing!!).

GIVEAWAY! Pellon Interfacing

2011-12-11T15:48:00.000-08:00

This giveaway is now closed. Congratulations to the winner, #953 Carla G!

Welcome to everyone participating in Sew Mama Sew Giveaway Day! This is one of 2 entries that I have for you (I also have a Heather Ross Bag Giveaway Here).

If you know me, you'll know I *love* interfacing. I mean, I really really love it!! I wrote a post on interfacing over the summer. As far as sewing supplies go, interfacings probably account for about 50% of my Joann Fabrics purchases. ;-) That is why it brings me great pleasure to give away this lot of Pellon interfacing products!!

Most fabric stores carry Pellon interfacing by-the-yard, but did you know you can also purchase it in handy packages? They are available in independent fabric stores now, and will be in larger stores, such as Joann Fabrics, by February.

The Caliti Convertible Clutch, a free tutorial I wrote, uses 3 different kinds of Pellon interfacing!

Here is what is included in the Pellon prize package, for one lucky winner!!

1. Pellon #926 Extra-Firm Stabilizer, 15" x 2 yards
This is great for bags or other accessories like eyeglass cases! This one is a sew-in interfacing.
2. Pellon #806 Stitch-n-Tear, 15" x 3 yards
This is used for applique or machine embroidery; it supports your fabric as you stitch, and then it tears
away.
3. Pellon #906F Fusible Sheerweight, 15" x 3 yards
This is great for making a facing in a dress or blouse, or any sheer or light fabrics!
4. Pellon #725, 15" x 3 yards
This is a paper-backed fusible web. I'm getting ready to use some in a cardigan (for the cuffs/collars), but you can also use it for quilting (applique, etc.).
5. Pellon #EK150 Batting and Seam Tape, 1-1/2" x 30 yards
Wonderful for joining misc. pieces of batting together (awesome!!) and strengthening seams in clothing.
6. Pellon #807 Wonder-Web, 5/8" x 20 yards
Makes hemming pants or skirts really easy!
7. Pellon #805 Wonder Under, 5/8" x 20 yards
This one is a paper-backed web, again, great for hemming!
8. Pellon #EK150, 1-1/2" x 10 yards
This one is a knit, but you can also use it for joining batting too!

This prize pack from Pellon contains a whopping 91 yards of product, with a retail value of over $55!

If you have used Pellon before, or haven't but have been meaning to, this prize pack would be a great way to learn how to incorporate new interfacings into your sewing projects!

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE PELLON GIVEAWAY!

GIVEAWAY! Heather Ross Madison Bag!

2011-12-11T14:53:00.000-08:00

This giveaway is now closed. Congratulations to the winner, #61 Duff!

Hello everyone!! Thank you for stopping by, and welcome to the newcomers! This is one of 2 offerings (my giveaway for Pellon Interfacing is here) that I have for the Sew Mama Sew Giveaway Day!

This is the Madison Bag that I made earlier in the year, from Heather Ross fabrics from the Far Far Away lines. It would make a great Christmas gift for someone, or something nice just to keep for yourself!

PLEASE CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE GIVEAWAY!

Hello Kitty Circle Skirt

2011-12-08T06:57:00.000-08:00

My daughter really loves ballerina skirts and things that are girly, so I decided to make her a skirt for Christmas. Kids are sort of fickle with their tastes, and I had purchased this Christmas Hello Kitty fabric last year on clearance at Joann's, not even knowing that she would love Hello Kitty this year or that it would be the current hot thing. ;-) I guess I got lucky! I used this cute pattern by Favorite Things called Little Hip Skirts. I got the pattern for my birthday last week.

Fabric - The pattern for childrens' size 4 took 1 yard of the main fabric, and I also made the 'Double Skirt' option, and I used some contrasting red china silk that I got from fabric.com for around $2. The pattern also calls for elastic for the waistline.

Pattern Pieces - There are several skirt options, including a pleated skirt and a button-down skirt. I chose the basic circle skirt, which had 2 pattern pieces (the skirt and the waistband). The circle skirt has 4 panels (although I think I might have liked to cut the panel on the fold for 2 pieces, so that my print would have continued on through the front of the skirt instead of being chopped up by each of the 4 panels).

Illustrations/Instructions - This is a very easy pattern, and there were only a few steps to follow. There were a few illustrations to go along with the steps, so I had no problem with it.

I decided to topstitch snowflakes at the hem of the skirt, with one of the decorative stitches on my machine (which I don't often use!).

The only thing I didn't like about it was that the waistband was quite thick, and the elastic much thinner than the width of the waistband, so after the elastic is inserted, the waistband sort of pushes away from the body at the top. If I made the skirt again, I would probably adjust the waistband to be only slightly wider than the actual elastic, so that the entire waistband hugged the body (in doing so, the length of the skirt would probably have to be adjusted as well).

Conclusion - Great pattern and easy to follow; I like that there were several options to make the skirt look different. The skirt sizes are from toddler through teen (approx. 90lb.), so this one pattern will make skirts for many sizes. This would be appropriate for a beginner.

No Money for Fabric?

2011-12-06T21:06:00.000-08:00

Via Pat Bravo

Sorry for the mindless post, but hopefully it will brighten your day. :-)

Teflon Iron Plate

2011-12-06T20:42:00.000-08:00

While I was working on a bag project last week (which required a lot of fusible interfacing and tons of ironing), I had the pleasure to try out this handy little gadget. I had never heard of it before, but it's called Iron Safe. This is what it looks like in the package:

Basically, it's a Teflon-coated plate that will slide on to most irons. There is a spring attached that slips right over the sole of your iron to hold it in place. The plate helps a lot because it doesn't scorch the fabric, it doesn't stick to the fabric, and it keeps your iron nice and clean (especially if you accidentally get the fusible side of the interfacing up against the iron, which will make it all sticky! Yuck!).

I'm going to tell you a little secret, before I tried this out, I probably ironed about 50% of the time with my iron against the wrong side of the fabric, and no presser cloth. I just like to see what I'm ironing. Of course, there are times when I absolutely had to use a presser cloth, such as when ironing on certain types of interfacing to fabric; for instance, there's really no way to fuse fleece or Peltex to fabric with it up against your iron, as it just won't glide across the interfacing.

Even if you don't use interfacing for projects, Iron Safe is really great because it eliminates the presser cloth completely. I really would rather not use a presser cloth when I am pressing seams open (such as for a quilt), because I like to make sure the fabric is taut enough so that I'm not accidentally pressing creases into the front of the quilt (or other project). I just have to see it.

Also, some apparel fabrics should not be touching an iron when you are ironing them, pressing darts, etc.

I was really happy to find Iron Safe, and I've already thrown out my presser cloth (which, after about 5 years of use, looks like I took it outside and swirled it around in the mud; I was going to say something else about it, but that would be quite inappropriate). At about $10, it's totally worth it. You can find Iron Safe here if you're interested!

Starting my Christmas Tree Skirt

2011-12-05T22:09:00.000-08:00

We're actually going to have a full-sized AND real Christmas tree this year, so I was really excited to make a tree skirt! I said that we cannot buy the tree until the skirt is done. ;-)

For the tree skirt, I'm using this pattern from Kim at My Go-Go Life. Isn't her skirt awesome?? I got all my fabrics cut tonight (above), all ready to go in my Accuquilt GO! Baby with the Drunkard's Path die. The 'circles' will be the 4 solids in the left of the photo, and the rest will be the prints I cut out (the back of the skirt will be the candy-cane striped fabric in the bottom of the photo, I have a 1-yard piece for that). I was also thinking about doing ruffles, but I will probably wait until I finish piecing to decide on the fabric for that.

Kim's tree skirt

Curve Master presser foot

Instead of pinning all those curved edges together, I'll be using my Curve Master presser foot that I won on auction on eBay...can't wait to use it and I'll let you know how it goes!!

Need a New Sewing Machine?

2011-12-05T14:06:00.000-08:00

If you need a new sewing machine, check out this Brother CS6000i, now on Lightning Deal from Amazon and 65% off at just $154 plus free shipping. Check out the reviews...they are very plentiful, and majority are really good! This time of year in particular, I love Amazon and I love Slick Deals. I have a Brother sewing machine, I believe it is on a similar level to this one, and I just adore it.

Tutorial: Caliti Convertible Clutch

2011-12-05T06:10:00.000-08:00

I'm excited to bring you this clutch pattern! It converts from a tote into a clutch, with beautiful circle handles. I wrote this pattern for Pellon Projects; it uses 3 different kinds of interfacing, which will give you a chance to get familiar with each.

This pattern is appropriate for intermediate level sewing. It features inner pockets, a magnetic closure, and a metal buckle. You will also be required to make one buttonhole.

ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 1/2" UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING.

Printable Pattern Pieces

Finished size: 13" tall by 10" long (unfolded), 7" tall by 10" long (folded)

SUPPLIES

- 1/4 yard (or a fat quarter) exterior fabric
- 2/3 yard interior fabric
- 1/2 yard side accent/handle fabric
- 2 yards Pellon SF-101 fusible woven interfacing
- 1/2 yard Pellon Fusible Fleece
- 1/2 yard Pellon Decor-Bond
- magnetic snap
- metal buckle with tongue (I used the Dritz 1-5/8" fashion buckle)
- coordinating thread
- hand sewing needle

STEP 1 ~ CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC

From the Exterior Fabric

1a. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 8" x 11". These will be your Exterior Main Panels.

From the Interior Fabric

1b. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 11" x 11". These will be your Interior Main Panels.

1c. Cut 4 pieces, each measuring 11" x 6". These will be the Pockets.

From the Accent Fabric

1d. Cut 4 pieces, each measuring 2" x 11". These will be the Side Panels.

1e. Cut 2 pieces, each measuring 2" x 3". These will be the Bottom Strap pieces.

1f. Using the Top Strap piece that you printed out, cut 2 pieces from the Accent Fabric.

1g. Using the Handle pattern piece that you printed out, cut 4 pieces from the Accent Fabric.

From the Pellon SF-101 Fusible Woven Interfacing

1h. Repeat Step 1a. through Step 1g.

From the Pellon Fusible Fleece

1i. Repeat Step 1a. and Step 1b. Also cut two 2" x 2" squares from the fleece.

From the Pellon Decor-Bond

1j. Cut 8 pieces from the Handle pattern piece. Trim the Handle by approximately 1/4" on all edges (except trim by 1/2" in the inner circle) in order to reduce bulk in the seam allowance.

1k. Cut 8 pieces, each measuring 2" x 11".

STEP 2 ~ FUSE YOUR FABRICS

2a. Take 1 Exterior Main Panel and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse the woven interfacing to the wrong side of the Exterior Main Panel using manufacturer instructions. Then, fuse the fusible fleece to the interfaced side of the Exterior Main Panel. Repeat for the other Exterior Main Panel.

2b. Repeat Step 2a. for both Interior Main Panels.

2c. Take one Bottom Strap Piece and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse. Repeat for the remaining Bottom Strap Piece, both of the Top Strap Pieces, and each of the Pockets.

2d. Take one Handle Piece and one of the corresponding fusible woven interfacing pieces. Fuse. Then, fuse a Decor Bond Handle piece to the interfaced side of the Handle. Repeat so that you have fused a total of 2 pieces of Decor Bond to the Handle. Repeat this step for the remaining Handle pieces, and also for all of the Side Panels.

STEP 3 ~ ASSEMBLE THE INTERIOR

3a. Take 2 of the Pocket pieces and place them, right sides together. Sew along one 11" edge. Press seam open.

3b. Turn the Pocket so it is wrong sides together. Press again along the sewn edge so that it lies flat. Topstitch 1/4" from the edge.

3c. Repeat Step 3a. and Step 3b. for the 2 remaining Pocket pieces.

3d. Take one of the Interior Main Panels, right side facing you. Lay one Pocket with the raw edge even with the bottom of the Interior Main Panel. Pin, then baste along the raw edges of the Pocket (you will not baste the sewn edge of the Pocket). Repeat for the remaining Interior Main Panel and Pocket.

3e. Take one of the Handle Pieces. Sew along 1 long edge, pivoting through the curve, approximately 1/4" from the raw edge of the fabric. Also sew 1/2" along the inside circle of the Handle. Clip the 'valley' of the fabric with slits, and notch the 'peak' of the fabric with small v's, approximately every 1/2". Be sure not to cut in to your stitching.

3f. Turn your iron on. Using your fingers, turn the fabric to the wrong side at your stitches, then slowly ease along your fabric with your iron. It is especially important to press the inside circle very well.

3g. Repeat Step 3e. and Step 3f. for all 4 Handle pieces (set 2 of the Handles aside for the exterior).

3h. Take one Interior Main Panel and measure down 3/4" from the top (the pocket will be at the bottom). Make a mark on the top left and top right corners. Align the bottom straight edges of the Handle along the marks that you made, and pin to the Interior Main Panel. Edgestitch on the Handle along the long pressed edge, 1/8" from the edge. You will not stitch the inside circle of the Handle at this time.

3i. Trim inside the inner circle of the Handle where the Interior Main Panel is sticking out. You'll want to flip it over to the wrong side and trim an additional 1/2" away.

3j. Repeat Step 3h. and Step 3i. for the other Interior Main Panel and Handle.

STEP 4 ~ INSTALL THE MAGNETIC SNAP

4a. Take 1 Interior Main Panel piece and 1 of the fleece squares that you cut in Step 1i. Take the washer from one of the prongs and mark the prong placement with a fabric marker or chalk, approximately in the center of the Thermolam. Cut small slits at the marks. The reason that you are using the fleece is that it will help to reinforce your fabric against the pull from the magnetic snap every time you open and shut the clutch.

4b. On the Interior Main Panel piece, make a mark that is centered, and 8" up from the bottom of the Interior Main Panel.

4c. With the snap washer in the middle of the mark on the Interior Main Panel, mark the prong placement with a fabric marker or chalk. Cut small slits at the marks.

Helpful Hint: I like to put a dab of Fray Check on the slits that were cut. I feel this helps the fabric hold up a bit better under the stress of the magnetic snap.

4d. Slide the prongs of the snap through the right side of the Interior Main Panel. Place the fleece square, then the washer, over the prongs. Close the prongs outward (use pliers with a piece of scrap fabric over the metal, if you need to), making sure they lie flat.

4e. Repeat Steps 4a. through 4d. to attach the other half of the snap to the other Interior Main Panel.

STEP 5 ~ ASSEMBLE THE EXTERIOR

5a. Take one of your Exterior Main Panels and one Side Panel. With right sides facing, place the Side Panel along the 11" edge on the left-hand side of the Exterior Main Panel. Sew along the 11" edge. Press seam toward the Side Panel. Repeat this step for another Side Panel and the right-hand side of the Exterior Main Panel.

5b. Edgestitch on the Side Panel 1/8" from the seam on the left side of the Exterior. Then edgestitch 1/4" from the stitches that you just made. Sew slowly, and make sure that the seam allowance is underneath your stitching; this will ensure that it gets tacked down securely. Now your Side Panel will have a nice finished look. Repeat for the right side of the Exterior.

5c. Repeat Step 3h. to attach each remaining Handle to each Exterior Main Panel.

STEP 6 ~ ASSEMBLE THE STRAPS/BUCKLE

6a. Take both of your Bottom Strap pieces. Place them right sides together, and stitch along each 3" edge. Turn Bottom Strap right side out and press.

6b. Make a mark on the bottom of one Exterior Main Panel, over 4-7/8" from the left hand edge.

6c. Place your Bottom Strap piece to the right of the mark that you made in Step 6b. One raw edge of the Bottom Strap should be even with the raw edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Slide the metal buckle over the Bottom Strap, then fold the Bottom Strap down so that now both of the raw edges of the Bottom Strap are even with the bottom of the Exterior Main Panel. Pin in place.

6d. Take both of the Top Strap pieces and place them, right sides together. Sew along 3 edges but do not sew the short straight edge.

6e. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4", and clip the corner off, which will help it lie more flat. Turn the Top Strap right sides out and press.

6f. Edgestitch the Top Strap 1/8" from the sewn edges (again, do not sew the straight short edge), being sure to pivot at the corners; then edgestitch the Top Strap 1/4" from what you just sewed.

6g. On the Top Strap piece, make a buttonhole 1-1/2" down from the pointed top corner.

6h. Remove the pin from under the Bottom Strap. Slide the Top Strap piece under the Bottom Strap piece, making sure to re-adjust the buckle. The raw edges of all Strap pieces should be even with the bottom edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Re-pin.

6i. Baste across the bottom of the Exterior Main Panel, attaching the Strap pieces. Sew horizontally right under the metal buckle, as close to the buckle as you are able to (you might want to pop your zipper foot on for this).

STEP 7 ~ ASSEMBLE THE CLUTCH

7a. Take both Interior Main Panels, and place right sides together. Pin along the 3 straight edges. Sew along those 3 straight edges only, with a 5/8" seam. This will help the interior fit more snuggly inside your exterior. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Clip the 2 bottom corners, being careful not to cut into your stitching. Leave the Interior wrong side out.

7b. Take both Exterior Main Panels, and place right sides together (you might want to buckle the strap so that it does not get caught in the stitching). Pin along the 3 straight edges. Sew along those 3 straight edges only, with a 1/2" seam. When you get to the part where the straps are, sew slowly or hand crank your needle, and backstitch again (to give the strap added strength). Clip the 2 bottom corners. Press seams open, and turn the Exterior right side out.

7c. Place the Exterior inside of the Interior. Make sure the Handles and the side seams are aligned, then pin in place. Make sure you pin an exterior handle to an interior handle (otherwise you might be sewing the bag shut!).

7d. Sew the top of the Handles, all along the top of the clutch, with a 1/4" seam allowance. Do not stitch the inside circles. Clip the 'valley' of the fabric with slits, and notch the 'peak' of the fabric with small v's, approximately every 1/2". Be sure not to cut in to your stitching.

7e. Turn the clutch right side out through one of the openings. Edgestitch the tops of the handles, 1/4" from the edge, all the way around.

7f. Match the insides of the handles. You should have a nice pressed edge to work with from earlier. Pin the inside circles. Edgestitch the inside circles, 1/4" from the edge. Note: Depending on your machine, you may not be able to sew around the entire inside circle of the handles. I was able to sew half by machine and half by hand. This is the trickiest (and last!) step of the pattern, so take your time...the results will be worth your patience!

CONGRATULATIONS! You're finished!
Give your bag a good pressing for a professional-looking finish. Now you have a tote that collapses into a clutch, held in place with the metal buckle!

If you have any questions about this pattern, feel free to e-mail me directly at sara@sewsweetness.com, or check out my Flickr Group! I would love to see your completed project posted there!

Darth Vader Likes to Sew, too

2011-12-02T18:34:00.000-08:00

I just wanted to share this gorgeous drawing I got in the mail today as a birthday gift...I didn't know Darth Vader has a Singer (err, Sither) machine!! The Echino is mine, I thought it would look really cool framing this photo.

This is definitely going in a frame in my sewing room...priceless!

P.S. I didn't have a chance to take photos of my new free tutorial pattern before it got dark, so make sure you check back Monday morning for a great free sewing pattern...just a little hint, it's a convertible clutch purse (would make great Christmas gifts!!). ;-)