This post is part of the Sewing Back-to-School series, 30 days of helpful sewing articles by guest bloggers. Feel free to check out the original Sewing Back-to-School post for schedule and previous posts!
Hello everyone! Thanks so much for visiting my blog for the 'Sewing Back-to-School' series! I hope you've enjoyed it! My topic today is on interfacing. Interfacing is one of my most favorite things, besides the fabric itself. Interfacing can turn a light piece of fabric into a stiff bag that will stand up by itself. Interfacing can give body to the waistband of a skirt. Interfacing can do many things, but it can also be confusing. When shopping for interfacing at the fabric store, you will run into dozens and dozens of white bolts (and some even in black). Today, I'm going to talk about the ones I use most often.
Pellon SF-101 {Shape-Flex Cotton Woven Fusible}
For sewing projects, this is the interfacing that I use the most often. It comes with a light purple label on the bolt (it's the 4th from the left in the above picture...SF-101). Often on my blog, I just refer to this one as 'fusible woven interfacing'. Joann's sells this for $4.99/yard, and it's 20" wide.
It is fusible (the glue on the interfacing melts from the heat of your iron) on one side, so you would iron it with the fusible side (the fusible side feels rough/tacky) against the wrong side of your actual fabric. You should always using a pressing cloth against the non-fusible side of the interfacing. After fusing, your actual fabric and the interfacing will become a single unit.
The Pellon SF-101 interfacing will not make your fabric stiff, but it will lend it more body. For example, when ironed on to a quilting-weight/mid-weight cotton fabric, the fabric will now have the body of a decor-weight fabric. It is great for areas of a project that take a little more wear, such as the pockets of a bag.
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| Body of this bag made with Pellon SF-101 Interfacing |
This interfacing can be used by itself, or in combination with other interfacings. For example, you can have one layer of Pellon SF-101, followed by a layer of Pellon Thermolam (more on that later). The reason that the Pellon SF-101 gets fused to your actual fabric first is that it provides a nice, smooth base, since it is woven like your actual fabric probably is. The Pellon Thermolam, which is a fleece fusible interfacing, is thicker, like actual fleece fabric, but it can look wrinkly (in my opinion), so that's why it comes after the Pellon SF-101, if you're using it for a bag.
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| This bag was made with a layer of Pellon SF-101, followed with a layer of Pellon Thermolam |
Pellon SF-101 is also great to have around when you are sewing clothing. Since it makes the fabric more stable, it can help in the areas of a garment that take more wear/movement, such as a collar, arm holes, or a waistband. In the picture below, I fused the Pellon SF-101 to the waistband piece. This is a high waistband, and the interfacing helps give it the support it needs (otherwise it might look wrinkly or misshapen).
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| I used Pellon SF-101 interfacing in the waistband of this skirt. |
Pellon #987F {Fusible Fleece}
This interfacing is available on the light green bolts at the store. It is fusible on one side. It is fleece, but it is loftier/fluffier than the Thermolam (up next on my list!). I have used this before and did not care for it, at least in the types of projects I've made. It's just not dense enough for me, so I'm going to move on.
Pellon Thermolam Plus
This interfacing also comes as a one-sided fusible, and also with the light green label on the bolt. It is fleece, like the Pellon #987F, but the major difference is that the Thermolam is needled, so that it is a denser fabric. In my mind, this comparison is similar to that (if you're a quilter) of Warm and Natural batting, and some of the other cotton or polyester battings that are available. The Warm and Natural is needled also, so it lays more flat and is not fluffy like some other battings.
As you saw in my bag above with the pink pom-poms, it can be used as an additional interfacing layer with Pellon SF-101. It makes bags feel very sturdy and store-bought.
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| I quilted the damask fabric in this project before assembling the fabric pieces |
Thermolam would also be great if you wanted to add some quilted detail to a project. You could fuse the Thermolam to the wrong side of your patchwork or other fabric (as in my photo above), and machine quilt it without having to baste it or use pins.
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| I've added an extra piece of interfacing where I have inserted the metal magnetic snap |
Another side mention for the Theromolam is that I use it all the time to enforce magnetic snaps. Magnetic snaps are metal, and I am always nervous that the extra weight of opening and closing them all the time will wear away at the fabric. So I always interface the fabric that the snap is going into as per the pattern instructions, and then fuse a scrap of Thermolam before I insert the snap. In my photo above, I'm showing you the lining side, wrong side of a flap for a bag where the magnetic snap is going. As you can see, I've fused that extra bit of Thermolam on before I inserted the snap. It doesn't have to be a certain size, I just cut a piece depending on the scraps I have lying around.
Pellon Peltex #70 {Extra Firm Sew In Stabilizer}
I use several different kinds of Peltex, and the Peltex #70 is first on the list. It comes on a bolt with a yellow label. Unlike the other interfacings that we've talked about so far, Peltex #70 is
not fusible. It is a sew-in interfacing, which means that you will have to secure it to your actual fabric by another means, usually basting or sewing through the two layers at once. It is one of the stiffest interfacings out there, and will make your project holds its shape and stand up on its own.
If you'd like to use Peltex #70 without having to baste or sew it to your fabric first, you do have an option! You can cut your fabric out, then the Peltex #70, and finally a layer of Pellon SF-101. Using a ruler and marking pen, you would then mark your Peltex #70 at 1/2" margin, all the way around the piece. Trim at your marks, making the Peltex #70 a half-inch smaller than the actual fabric. Next, layer your fabric, then the Peltex #70, and finally the Pellon SF-101. When you fuse the Pellon SF-101, it will attach to your actual fabric at the seam allowance, sealing in the Peltex #70. Having the smaller Peltex #70 piece will also keep the bulk out of your seam allowances. And you're all good to continue on with the project!
One of the reasons that you would use Peltex #70 instead of another heavy fusible interfacing, is if you are working over a larger area. My example below is a bag that I made using Peltex #70. As you can see, it is quite a large bag. If I had used a Peltex fusible interfacing instead, the whole area of the bag would look 'fused', meaning, very crinkly looking. Not how you want your bag to look. So I basted the Peltex #70 to the wrong side of my actual fabric (or you could layer it with a piece of Pellon SF-101, as I mentioned above).
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| This bag was made using Pellon Peltex #70 interfacing |
Another great reason to have some Peltex #70 around is for bag handle inserts. Some sewing patterns for bags call for you to create sort of a double-bias piece for each handle, meaning that your raw edges would not be exposed. I cut a strip of 1-1/2" wide Peltex #70 for each of the handles in the bag below, and slide them into each handle piece before topstitching along each long edge. It makes the handles very stable...as you can see from my photo below, the handles are basically standing up on their own.
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| The handles of this bag were made using inserts, which were strips of Peltex #70 |
Pellon Peltex #71F {Single-sided Fusible}
I have to admit, I really really love this interfacing. It is the heaviest duty fusible interfacing that I use, but it can be scary because it is so stiff (it makes sewing through multiple layers very tricky). This is
slightly stiffer than the Peltex #70 (because of the fusible aspect). To fuse it to fabric, you would place the tacky side against the wrong side of your actual fabric. It also helps to mist your presser cloth before pressing, and use plenty of steam. After I press, I like to flip the fabric over and iron lightly on the right side of the actual fabric, to make sure there are no puckers in the fabric. If you find a pucker right away, no problem! While the interfacing is still warm, you should be able to gently peel away the offending area, and reposition it.
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| This is a piece of fabric fused with Peltex #71F; as you can see, I'm holding it up and the fabric doesn't flop over |
I probably use Peltex #71-F a lot more than I should...I just love a stiff bag. It is a good idea to cut your Peltex #71-F a half-inch smaller than your actual fabric (as I recommended earlier for the Peltex #70), to keep the bulk out of your seam allowances.
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| I made this clutch using Peltex #71-F on the main portion of the bag (not the flap) |
Pellon #808 Craft-Fuse and Pellon #809 Decor-Bond
I have used each of these one or two times in the past. I suppose since I use other interfacings more often and tend to have them on hand instead, I use what I have. These are both light-weight iron-on stabilizers, and come on the bolts with the yellow label. They are really good for home decor items, or as a stabilizer when doing machine applique.
Other Fusible Garment Interfacings
I like sewing clothes, but so far I haven't ventured out into a huge variety of different garment fabrics. However, if you are going to choose a different fabric for your clothes that isn't a woven, chances are you will need a fusible interfacing for a neckline, armhole, waistband, etc. These come on the bolts with the light purple label. I'm just briefly going to touch on these, as the application will generally be the same.
#845F Designers Lite for crepe, rayon, and satin
#855F Tailor's Elite for wool, wool crepe, and corduroy
#880F Sof Shape especially for fabric with a drape
#906F for crepe de chine and voile
There are many, many interfacings that I have not touched on (just because I have not personally used them). For more information,
click here to take you to a helpful table from Pellon with all the different types of interfacings, and their common uses!
